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Iceland is normally famed for their northern lights, geysers, geothermal spas, volcanos and ridiculously nice drinking water, but it's fair to say you can start adding golf to that list. It seems nearly all of Europe is competing to gain a foothold in the massive golf holiday market with nations like Spain, Portugal and Turkey firmly established if you're looking for some sun while you're at it. You'd be forgiven for not thinking of Iceland first for your golf trip, but when you combine the charm of a city like Reykjavik with the stunning golf courses on offer, you'll quickly realise it's a kill two birds with one stone scenario. Also, Iceland did record their record May temperature ever this year at a delightful 26 degrees. Even for our visit in late September, the weather was generally between 10-12 degrees. The chance to see a wonderful city and play some unique golf courses? Mail Sport just had to head north to see what a golfing treat Iceland has become. Kielir Golf Club We had the pleasure of playing three different courses during our time in Iceland. We're told there are around 65 courses on the island in total with more being planned and built as you read this. Kielir is about a 15-minute drive from the centre of Reykjavik with around 2,000 members (Iceland has a population just shy of 390k total) and its charm stems from playing holes in among the lava fields. They have a trackman driving range to warm up, an old whale sanctuary where the whale from Free Willy used to live (seriously) that has been converted into a putting green and a delightful club house that looks out over the nordic sea and the aforementioned fields. While the views were magnificent, a yellow weather warning meant we could only play four holes of the course (frustrating as we had blue skies the rest of the trip!). We played the first four, of which holes two and three are considered a couple of the course's staples. The latter is a drivable par four but not only does it get very narrow towards the green, there's also a rough mound in the middle of the fairway. Once we got to the first par three and a six iron went about 70 yards we knew we were not going to defeat the weather! However, the holes featured just the right amount of challenge and beauty to intoxicate a travelling golfer and negotiating the lava fields is certainly something you're unlikely to find anywhere else. The general manager thought we were mad to want to play in those conditions, but I'm glad we did. A real uniquely nordic experience. Mosfellsbær Golf Club Our first 18 was actually divided into two nine holes (you need two different tee times) that played along the sea with gorgeous scenery of the mountains serving as a spectacular backdrop. We were paired with some good company for this round. Ari, a seven handicapper and member of the golf club, essentially caddied the round for us with his knowledge of the course. In fact, he sunk his first ever hole in one on a par three in the front nine - and we caught it on video! I really enjoyed the front nine especially. It's essentially a loop around a valley that starts and ends at the clubhouse; the first hole requires a precise tee shot before hitting over to an island of a green and there is a par five at the turn which entices a direct line over the next hole's green before an uphill climb to your actual green. It's a lovely blend of views and playable holes (a common theme). They are kept to a stunning, championship standard but the course wants players of all abilities to be able to play and it shows. All of the courses we played are links golf. The wind can have its way with you at any given moment. Considering our location and the weather the day prior, we had remarkably agreeable conditions; conducive to potentially 'easier' golf but battling the elements is part of the fun, too. The back nine plays more along the coast with some tricky par four and fives. You'll want to score well on the front nine as the back is almost twice as long from every tee. I really enjoyed this course; it has a great mix of holes in both length and difficulty from the first nine to the last, but with the beauty of its surroundings to unify the two. Well worth noting the modern, slick clubhouse that looks down on the golf, too. The food available (we have pizzas after our round) was the best of three courses. Brautarholt This has been voted the number one golf course in Iceland by many reputable outlets and many have named it in the top 100 golf courses in the world. Very early on, you see why. The visuals are breathtaking. The very first hole is Brautarholt's signature; a par five that kicks off with a downward drive but plays up to a green that sits as an island that if you go long, you're seabound. It's a magnificent hole, the best one of the trip I might even say. It's quite rightly the cornerstone of the course and the pictures couldn't possibly do the beauty justice, but there is plenty more of said beauty on offer as you traverse the grounds. Brace yourself for the walk up to the second hole because it is strenuous to say the least. Once you get up there, a par 3 barely over 100 yards awaits you. This is a very playable course with profound beauty. Exactly what a paying customer on their travels hopes for in many ways. The ninth hole takes you back to the hill that you scaled after the first and towards the clubhouse. It used to be a 12-hole course that only expanded to 18 holes a few short months ago. It's a breathtaking course that is very playable for a range of abilities, but the clubhouse lags behind the other two courses we visited (there are plans to expand and improve it) and the driving range is in the process of being built. Once the plans come to fruition, this course will become one of the must-play destinations - period. Things to do Reykjavik is a city full of character with many notable shops and buildings painted bright colours or covered in eye-catching art. Just to walk the streets will seduce your senses, but there's so much more to it. We went to the Sky Lagoon about 15 minutes outside of our central Reykjavik hotel and for those unaware, this is where you can enjoy the natural hot springs courtesy of the volcanoes. There is also a seven-step spa associated with the geothermal bath which culminates in a cold plunge before you re-enter the jacuzzi-like pool. There is also a bar carved into the volcanic rocks to top it off. Our first dinner of the trip came at the chic Apotek, barely even 100 yards across the square from our ideally located Parliament Hilton hotel. This is a top tier restaurant that would fit in anywhere in the world; whatever you like, you can't go wrong. I had a T-bone steak that was done to perfection - I highly recommend it. Next up was Raoageroi, an Italian eatery that brings you right to the coast of the island and, coincidentally, one of the best viewing spots for the northern lights. It's a real traditional Italian menu just as one would hope for. I had a lasagne with four layers of pasta and cheese that I was very happy with but even more so, the service is excellent. The place has a family kind of atmosphere that really enhances the experience. Finally, Torfan, just a five minute walk from our hotel and the city centre, gave us the opportunity to take in some Icelandic cuisine. In fact, we were given a reindeers tongue as an appetiser! A delightful, quaint restaurant where the servers are only too happy to understand the Icelandic treats. Travel and where to stay EasyJet and British Airways both do direct flights to Iceland but we travelled with Icelandair, the country's main airline. It's easily one of the best European flights I've ever been on from the space in your seat to the service on the aircraft, even in economy. We flew home in their version of business class, Icelandair Saga Premium. There are wide, comfortable recliner-style seats that offer more legroom than the already generous economy and passengers receive a pillow, blanket, amenity kit, and a bottle of water upon boarding. As someone who has done countless flights south of five hours in and around Europe, I'd count that among the best. As part of the Saga Premium experience, we were granted access to their lounge on the way home which featured a small, free buffet (which had chicken wings, so good enough for me), free drinks and plenty of cosy seating. You can even have a shower if need be. Although Reykjavik does have an airport of sorts, you will fly into Keflavik which is 45 minutes away. For that alone it's worth hiring a car when you land and certainly for getting to the golf courses, even though they're all about 20 minutes-ish away from the centre of the city. The Parliament Hilton hotel is in keeping with the brand the world over. You know what you're going to get with a Hilton, but the real magic of this place is its location. The hotel is in the heart of the city and it's easy to take a stroll to pretty much any landmark or vibrant street, of which there are many. The hotel does have a gym and a decent breakfast option to get you going, but the location and modern rooms make it the ideal stay. Bucket list Last but not least, we were lucky enough to see the northern lights on our last night. It's a real game of chance; there are a couple of spots at Reykjavik's end of the island where you can get just far enough away from the city lights to get the darkness you need to see the green and purple rays in all their glory. There is a scale that tells you how likely you are to see the phenomenon and, for some reason, that is out of nine. On the night we went looking, it was a less that hopeful three. However, after around 75 minutes of braving the chill dark night and on the cusp of giving up, a strange, long cloud formation appeared that suddenly turned into the lights. A truly breathtaking experience. Iceland had always been on my bucket list for the geothermal pools and the northern lights, but I had no idea about the calibre of golf courses that were hiding in Reykjavik, too. It has to be difficult to maintain the courses in such unforgiving weather for most of the year, but the greens and facilities were all in immaculate condition and the people, perhaps opposing the climate, were all warm and welcoming too.
