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This year’s hottest skin treatment? The salmon sperm facial. It might sound like a punchline, but it really is the latest aesthetic trend promising smoother, firmer, more resilient skin—and people are paying thousands for their fix. Perhaps you’ve heard of it from Kim Kardashian, who spoke about getting salmon sperm injections on her family’s Hulu reality show last year. Or maybe you’re into Korean skincare, as name-brand Rejuran—a.k.a. Rejuran Healer or Healing Essence—has been a staple at Seoul’s leading skin clinics since 2014. You might’ve even seen it billed as a “salmon DNA facial” at your local longevity or concierge medicine center (as I did, to my surprise, during my recent visit to Next Health in West Hollywood, California, for a vitamin drip). For the uninitiated, the star ingredient in salmon sperm is polynucleotides (PN), which can enhance skin elasticity, brightness, and skin texture, among other benefits. (In the world of aesthetic procedures, salmon sperm is sometimes referred to as PDRN). It’s common to experience a subtle glow-up that can last for a few months after a single session, yet polynucleotides shine as part of a long-term plan for skin regeneration. Treatments—which can cost up to $1,000 in the United States—are often recommended in a series of three or four sessions spaced a month apart for more meaningful repair and results that last up to a year (ideally followed by quarterly or biannual touch-ups). According to Bell Yoo, NP, a board-certified nurse practitioner and the founder of Mimo Aesthetics in West Hollywood, DNA is sourced from salmon milt—or the seminal fluid male salmon release during spawning—which is then extracted and purified to make an anti-aging elixir for your skin. (In case you are wondering, the salmon do not survive this process.) Research shows that salmon polynucleotides are highly biocompatible with human skin, minimizing risk of adverse reactions while encouraging repair and regeneration. While salmon sperm facials are newer to the United States, polynucleotides have been a fan favorite in Korean medical aesthetics for the past decade. Not to mention PN injections are backed by studies demonstrating improvements in skin texture, wrinkles, hydration, and overall facial appearance. “Post-injections, many patients tell me they feel their skin has changed at a deeper level,” says Ethan Wonuk Hwang, MD, a cosmetic physician and the director of Cheongdam Lebelle Clinic in Seoul, South Korea. “Beyond a temporary glow, they notice smoother texture, a more refined tone, and a healthier, firmer quality to the skin.” This may be one of the reasons why more men are booking salmon sperm facials and injections—splooge jokes, be damned. According to Yoo, male clients particularly appreciate how PN treatments make their skin look and feel better by strengthening their skin barrier, boosting hydration, and stimulating collagen—all without appearing “done” (i.e., shiny and tight from Botox or puffy from fillers). “They notice healthier, radiant skin without any changes to their features,” she says. “Many also appreciate that the improvements are gradual, so it doesn’t draw unwanted attention.” Derek Besenfelder, an event producer in his mid-40s in Los Angeles, California, says that Rejuran injections are his ticket to maintaining a natural, youthful appearance. (“I can’t stress the natural part enough,” he says.) Since July 2024, he’s had 10 rounds of Rejuran injections, and he couldn’t be happier with the results. “Instead of putting band-aids on my problem areas, it actually targets them and heals the skin from within,” he says. “My skin looks and feels hydrated with an even tone, renewed elasticity, and overall radiance.” He adds that his friends notice these improvements as well and regularly ask him what his secret is. “Men often struggle with concerns such as large pores, rough skin texture, pigmentation issues, and redness and irritation from shaving,” adds Dr. Hwang. “Rejuran addresses these issues by working at the cellular level to strengthen the skin’s structure.” The result: healthier skin that looks noticeably, yet subtly, refreshed. Dr. Hwang administers Rejuran to himself every few months, citing it as a mainstay in his own routine since it yields both short-term and lasting benefits. “Within just a few days of treatment, I notice my skin texture becoming smoother, hydration levels improving, and elasticity returning,” he says. David Weir, MSN, APRN, NP-C, an aesthetic nurse practitioner in Dallas, Texas, sometimes opts for other PN-based topicals after procedures like lasers or microneedling (aka the “salmon sperm facial” route). “My male patients really like it as it reduces downtime and improves results with fewer visits,” he says. (He’s also used them on himself in the same capacity, enjoying less redness, faster healing, and better texture.) He agrees that most of his male patients want to avoid the “done” look but still seek out smoother, fresher skin with fewer lines. “Polynucleotides fit that vibe,” Weir says. “It works under the radar but makes a big difference.” Ultimately, the interest in salmon sperm treatments is reflective of a growing trend in aesthetic skincare procedures. One that’s less interested in drastic modifications and more focused on subtle prevention techniques. “More patients desire treatments that can strengthen the skin, slow down aging, and look natural over time,” says Yoo. “Rejuran embodies the cultural shift to focus on prevention and restoration.” A form of stealth wealth for your skin. It’s worth mentioning that in the U.S., polynucleotide injections have yet to be approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). The ingredient is only cleared for topical use in certain formulations (including Rejuran)—a route that offers more mild benefits compared to injectables (hence the many TikToks in which influencers travel to South Korea for the pricks and prods.) “Applying PN topically after microneedling can help soothe the skin and support healing since the micro-channels allow better absorption than unbroken skin,” Weir says. Injury—whether from a laser, microneedling, or even a peel—activates your skin’s repair system and opens pathways for polynucleotides to penetrate more effectively, he explains. “Still, it’s not as effective as putting it directly into the dermis with injections, which delivers it right where your skin makes collagen and repairs itself.” Some critics add that polynucleotides are larger in size than skincare staples like retinoids and vitamin C, thus questioning how much of it will truly be absorbed when applied topically. If and when the injections will be approved by the FDA is anyone’s guess. “The U.S. FDA approval process is stringent and requires robust data,” says Dr. Hwang, “but I believe Rejuran has the scientific merit and clinical track record to meet those standards.” Nevertheless, more medspas, dermatology and plastic surgery practices, and longevity centers from coast to coast are adding salmon sperm to their menus—sometimes injecting PN in an off-label, often hush-hush capacity. In the process they’re spawning salmon sperm devotees in the process (pun very much intended). “I’ve been extremely happy with the results and look forward to my maintenance appointments,” says Besenfelder. “For me, the benefits of Rejuran definitely outweigh the costs, making this a valuable investment in myself.”
