Copyright berkshireeagle
EGREMONT — I was eager to try The Mill, having not been there since its reincarnation as an oyster bar and lounge. Kato’s martial arts instructor was spending a few days with us, so we packed into the Avanti and headed out. Upon arrival, a parking attendant helped us into a space in a lot adjacent to the restaurant. Kato and his instructor led the way to the restaurant, formerly The Old Mill. A wall of noise and motion greeted us as we made our way to the host stand on the dining room side of the place. The adjacent room contained the bar and small tables. The restaurant is first-come, first-served (reservations are required and only available for parties of five or more), so we were lucky that, despite the crowd, there was a table for three in the center of the room. Every table was more cocktail than dinner-sized. Kato and his instructor sat opposite each other, giving them a full view of the action in the room. The host left a page of specials along with the food and beverage menu. My guests made their choices quickly and proceeded to discuss the relative merits of several defense tactics. I took my time, changing my mind several times before coming to a decision. A strength of the menu is that you may order something as light as fresh oysters or moules–frites, or as complex as a vegetable curry or a grilled Berkshire pork chop with braised red cabbage on the specials menu. Our server brought small dishes of olives and mixed nuts for us and took our order. Kato, uncharacteristically, ordered a Guinness Stout; his instructor, a glass of Chateau Dauzac Bordeaux. I had a raspberry mocktail. For dinner, we ordered some things to share along with our mains — a sweet corn chowder from the specials menu, fresh and wild mushrooms over polenta, a tomato and peach salad with burrata, and for mains, Kato chose a Faroe salmon special, the instructor went with a lobster roll, and I picked the Cioppino. Our drinks arrived, followed closely by our appetizers. The small table barely held our feast. The peach and tomato salad looked festive and tasted of summer. Fresh, mostly local tomatoes and perfectly ripe peaches drizzled with balsamic dressing surrounded some burrata in the center. All three of us enjoyed this plate, noting that the balsamic was not at all sweet, leaning toward the vinegar profile, which allowed the tomatoes and peaches to shine. The corn chowder, piping hot, was thick with corn and scallion slices. The thin broth made the soup light and a good vehicle for the corn kernels. Very light seasoning was used, again allowing the fresh vegetables to shine. The winner of the round, however, was the sauteed mushrooms with a triangle of polenta, microgreens and more of the delicious balsamic glaze. The polenta was crisp and flavorful, seasoned well. The mushrooms, some wild, some domesticated, sauteed until they gave up their liquid, tasted of the woods, each with a slightly different flavor. A bit of a wait ensued until our main courses arrived. We munched, in the meantime, on breadsticks and a mustardy cheese dip left on the table with our appetizers. Our guest’s lobster roll was ample, and its insides contained perfectly cooked lobster with a minimum of mayonnaise and celery bits. The house-made potato chips were addictive and the home-made coleslaw had a dressing that was more vinegar than mayonnaise, providing a nice tang. Kato’s salmon was balanced on a risotto cake, with a dollop of mango salsa and finished with microgreens. It, too, was perfectly cooked with crisp skin and meltingly tender insides. The mango salsa brought a fruity, slightly spicy taste to it and the crunchy risotto cake. My bowl of cioppino was steaming hot and satisfying. Two pieces of crusty bread bathed in the tomato and seafood broth, soaking in the goodness. Ample chunks of white fish, scallops, lobster, shrimp and onions kept all of us busy, along with the well-cooked mussels. Consuming the sopping bread topped the meal. Kato and the instructor led the way back to the car, avoiding incoming patrons and servers. Kato pointed the car homeward with the instructor riding shotgun. We agreed that if one can overlook the rather rushed service, this was one of the better meals we have had in some time, and there was plenty more on the menu to try and keep us interested. RESTAURANT REVIEW 53 Main St., South Egremont 413-528-1421, themillberkshires.com Hours: 5 to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday Price: $18-$48, oyster menu; $12-$48, small plates and mains
