Copyright Santa Rosa Press Democrat
Just three months after 18-year-old Isabel Simi was crowned Queen of the Healdsburg Floral Carnival in 1904, she unexpectedly found herself wearing a different kind of crown: winery owner. The daughter of Giuseppe Simi, who founded Simi Winery with his brother, Pietro, in 1876, Isabel took the reins of the Healdsburg winery after the two brothers suddenly died within weeks of each other. Isabel – who had grown up across the street from the winery in a grand, Italianate-style home at 68 Front St. – was no stranger to the demands of running a wine business. Undeterred by the responsibility, she embraced her new role with gusto. Over the next seven decades, Simi would go on to become an American wine icon, not only as one of the first woman winemakers in the U.S. but also for her pluck and ingenuity, which ensured the winery’s enduring success. “Isabel Simi was clearly a very strong leader, and we’ll continue to honor her memory,” said Katina Connaughton, co-owner of the three-Michelin-starred SingleThread restaurant, which she operates with her husband, chef Kyle Connaughton. In 2022, the Connaughtons and real estate developer Tony Greenberg purchased Simi’s historic home on Front Street, where the wine pioneer lived until her death at age 95 in 1981. Built in 1877 and purchased by Giuseppe Simi in 1897, the property was acquired for $7.25 million through their joint venture, Vertice Hospitality Management. Until 2017, the home operated as the River Belle Inn, a luxury bed-and-breakfast owned by architect Thomas Bangs and his wife, Mitzi. Late next year, the Connaughtons plan to relaunch the inn as The Selvedge, an all-inclusive bed-and-breakfast inspired by their love of Sonoma County and formative years in England (where Kyle is a dual citizen). “The Selvedge is very proud to be the stewards of Isabel’s former home,” said Katina Connaughton. “The female leadership at SingleThread and The Selvedge is a testament to the strength and determination of trailblazers like Isabel. Her spirit will continue to be celebrated by (hospitality manager) Brianna Davis, who, like Isabel, exemplifies the warmest and truest expression of hospitality.” A pioneer is born Isabel Simi was born in Healdsburg to Nicollete Bacigalupi (whose grandson Charles founded Bacigalupi Vineyards) and Giuseppe Simi, a native of Tuscany, Italy, who emigrated to California with his brother, Pietro, in search of gold. When that didn’t pan out, the brothers pivoted to selling produce in San Francisco, where they discovered a shared passion for winemaking in their North Beach basement. In 1881, they purchased the former Depot Winery on Front Street in Healdsburg, establishing Simi Winery’s first location before moving operations to its current site on Healdsburg Avenue in 1890. When Isabel took over the winery in 1904, she immediately went to work expanding the business, retrofitting the stone building with steel bars to withstand potential earthquakes. Just two years later, the San Francisco earthquake devastated the Bay Area, destroying many Sonoma County structures in its wake. Thanks to Simi’s foresight, the winery remained unscathed. Simi’s prudence and determination in an industry dominated by men became her lasting legacy, serving her well over the span of seven decades. During Prohibition, the winery survived by selling wine for sacramental purposes and by selling off its 700 acres of vineyards. A fun fact: Simi, who adored roses, planted a different variety for each U.S. president – except Herbert Hoover, whom she blamed for Prohibition. When Hoover sent her a rose bush in an attempt to be included, Simi promptly returned it. By the time Prohibition was repealed, Simi had quietly amassed 500,000 cases of Simi Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel, which she sold from a 25,000-gallon redwood tank that she transformed into Sonoma County’s first tasting room. Simi led the winery through the 1960s, persevering through the death of both her husband, Fred Haigh, and their only daughter, Vivien. In 1970, she sold the winery to Alexander Valley grape grower Russell Green, but continued to make her presence known in the tasting room until 1979. As it turned out, Isabel Simi was only the first of several strong women to lead Simi Winery. In 1973, Maryann Graff, the first woman to earn an enology degree from an American university, took the helm as winemaker. She was succeeded in 1979 by Zelma Long, who served as president and CEO of the winery until 1996. Long is credited with revitalizing the brand and expanding its vineyards. Today, Lisa Evich serves as director of winemaking, working alongside winemaker Rebecca Valls. In June, Simi Winery was acquired by The Wine Group from Constellation Brands, which had owned the label since 1999. A past and future legacy This August, the Healdsburg Museum (221 Matheson St.) launched “Many Paths to Healdsburg,” a new long-term exhibition exploring the history of Northern Sonoma County, with a special focus on Isabel Simi and Simi Winery. The exhibit, co-curated by Holly Hoods and experiential designer Noah Jeppson, delves into local history through stories, photographs and other documents. At The Selvedge, Katina Connaughton plans to honor Simi with every rose they plant in the gardens. “We are so proud to share a small sliver of history with Isabel,” she said. “We’ll continue to honor her memory.”
