Copyright National Geographic
With around 60 million visitors each year, Türkiye is now the world’s fourth-most popular tourist destination. Nearly all of those travelers pass through Istanbul or laze along fabulous Aegean and Mediterranean beaches. But one corner of the Eurasian nation continues to fly beneath the radar—the long, lush, and scenic Black Sea Coast in the northeast. That probably won’t be for long. More flights from Istanbul and other major cities, rapidly improving tourism infrastructure, and a growing number of travelers seeking interesting places that aren’t overcrowded means that Türkiye's third coast is gaining in popularity. Once upon a time, the southern edge of the Black Sea was the final link in one of the Silk Road routes between Asia and Europe. Trabzon and other ports along the shore were flush with merchant ships and traders hawking all sorts of goods from near and far. The region is bustling again, only this time with adventurous outdoor activities along a 400-mile stretch of coast and a hinterland spangled with deep forest-filled valleys and towering granite mountains. National parks in the Pontic Mountains offer myriad trekking routes, while the water courses that tumble down from the heights boast whitewater rafting, fly fishing, and riverside hot spring resorts. Beachgoers can choose from more than 100 different sandy strands. And unlike Türkiye's more popular coasts, the Black Sea remains refreshingly uncrowded. At least for now. (See all 25 destinations that made our list of the best places to visit in 2026.) What to do Sümela Monastery: Founded in the fourth century by two Orthodox monks searching for a holy relic, the monastery clings to the face of an enormous cliff in Altindere Valley National Park, about an hour’s drive inland from Trabzon. The 72-room complex is renowned for its early Christian frescoes, many of them discovered during the last decade and are still being restored. Trabzon: Once a busy trading port along the Silk Road, the seafront city preserves an array of historical architecture. Like its namesake in Istanbul, Trabzon’s Hagia Sophia started life as a Byzantine church before conversion into a mosque. Homes in the Orta Mahalle neighborhood are distinctly Ottoman while the elegant Atatürk Museum reflects Türkiye’s fascination with European style during the early 20th century. Rize: Cultivated on steep, emerald-green hillsides behind the coast, rich black tea is the forte of this seaside city. Family-run Çeçeva Köyü is one of several plantations that welcomes visitors for tours, tasting, and a chance to practice your tea harvesting skill with a wicker basket and shears. Ayder Plateau and Firtina Valley: This scenic upland region offers hot springs resorts, wedding-veil waterfalls, off-road tours, and hiking trails through forest and flower-filled meadows to the snow-topped granite peaks of Kaçkar Mountains National Park. The Firtina Valley flaunts zip lines, whitewater rafting, Ottoman-era stone bridges, and the ruined 14th-century Zilkale castle. Snow sports: Snow normally falls on the Pontic Mountains between mid-December and early March. Çambaşı Ski Resort has numerous runs, rental equipment, and a ski village with multiple restaurants and lodging options. Akdağ Ski Center near Samsun is largely self-serve, but the views on blue-sky days are unbeatable. When to go With water temperatures around 75°F, summer is definitely best for a dip in the Black Sea. It’s also ideal for exploring the Pontic Mountains. Winter is the season for skiing and snowboarding, but seeing Sümela with a dusting of snow puts a new perspective on the monks who sought peace and enlightenment at the remote monastery. Hasten to the Ayder Plateau in September and October for spectacular fall foliage. Where to eat Balık Cım: It’s all about seafood at this low-key but thoroughly delicious restaurant in the oceanfront Yomra neighborhood on the east side of Trabzon. The menu is spangled with regional specialties like balık çorbası (fish soup), hamsi tava (grilled anchovies), and karides güveç (shrimp casserole). Osmanlı Restaurant: Complement popular Turkish dishes like meze and kebabs with regional favorites at a riverside location beside an old Ottoman bridge in the Firtina Valley. Among the many choices are a cheesy muhlama (a.k.a. kuymak), savory akçaabat meatballs, and pide flatbread with various toppings. Kayadibi Saklı Bahçe Restoran: An ideal spot for lunch on the way to Sümela Monastery, this al fresco eatery in the hills above Maçka village serves Black Sea favorites in a funky garden setting beneath shady trees. Try dishes like lahana yığması (cabbage stir-fry) and çoban kavurma (roasted lamb with fried eggs). Bungalov Café: It’s a steep climb to this indoor/outdoor restaurant at the lofty Ayder Doğa Resort, but the bird’s-eye-views of the waterfalls and mountains more than compensate. Menu highlights include lamb chops, mountain trout, lentil soup, and an amazing multi-course breakfast. Ricosta Hotel: Bold, modern architecture and expansive Black Sea views are the hallmarks of this newish (2020) high-rise resort on the Rize waterfront. The indoor pool is complemented by a small private beach on a sheltered cove, children’s playground, and garden leading down to the sea. In addition to several restaurants, the Ricosta has a patisserie serving Turkish desserts and a cafe that specializes in Turkish tea. Sinop Antik Otel: Perched on the south side of the Sinop Peninsula, this laidback abode is the ideal place to base a surfing safari on the Black Sea Coast. Seaview rooms and an open-air restaurant overlook the hotel's umbrella-shaded private beach, and there's also a small pool. It’s an easy walk to surfing breaks on the peninsula’s north shore or the town museum with its Roman and Greek relics. Getting around Turkish Airlines offers more than a dozen daily nonstop flights from Istanbul to Trabzon and Rize. Those who want to see more of the Turkish countryside can ride Flixbus from Istanbul to the Black Sea Coast, a journey in modern coaches that takes 17-20 hours. For those who cherish the freedom of driving themselves, Alamo, Budget, Enterprise, National, and Hertz are among the rental car companies with desks at Trabzon Airport. Stretching more than 400 miles (670 km) along the shore between Sinop and the Georgia border, the Black Sea Coastal Road highway (Rte. E70/D.010) makes it easy to hop between beaches and coastal towns. Two modern motorways (the E95 and E97) rise into the heart of the coastal mountains and the plains of eastern Anatolian beyond. However, many routes through the highlands—including the roads to Sümela Monastery, the Ayder Plateau, and the two snow-sport areas—are narrow and twisty. FrequentNational Geographic contributor Joe Yogerst lived (and wrote) in Johannesburg, London, Hong Kong, and Singapore before returning to his native Southern California. He's been visiting Türkiye since his college backpacking days, but only recently discovered the Black Sea Coast.
