Each year I travel extensively at the end of August and beginning of September. I like to say that I leave in the summer and come back in the fall. Big changes occur over those three weeks: Steamy heat gives way to drier, crisper air; the trees begin to take on red and orange hues; darkness comes noticeably earlier.
It’s the perfect season for backyard bonfires — cool enough that the fire’s cozy warmth is welcome, but you don’t sit and shiver as you huddle around the flames. The soothing crackle and smell of woody smoke are a perfect match to fall. And what could be a more perfect pairing to this idyllic setting than a richly aromatic smoked beer?
Smoked beer is like an artifact of brewing history. Prior to the early 19th century, brewing malt was kilned with direct heat, sometimes from wood fires. This gave the grain a smoky character that transferred to the beer that was made from it. Very early beers likely all had some smokiness.
While advances in malting technology largely eliminated smoke flavors, some brewers chose to retain the old malting practices, using beechwood to smoke the grain. The city of Bamberg in southern Germany is particularly well known for its smoky rauchbier.
A selection of smoked beers from German beermaker Hellerbräu, which has been brewing its Aecht Schlenkerla line since the 15th century. (Provided by Hellerbräu)
The German benchmark
Hellerbräu has been brewing the Aecht Schlenkerla brand of traditional rauchbier in Bamberg since the 15th century. They are a great starting point for your smoked beer journey.
If you want to dip a toe into smoked beer, try Aecht Schlenkerla Helles. Brewed without smoked malt, the residual smokiness in the brewery kettle and fermenters imparts just a hint of flavor. This is a very well-made example of the Munich helles-style pale lager. Bready malt leads with subtle sweetness. Moderate bitterness and a healthy dose of spicy German hops provide the balance. The very light smoke adds warmth and depth without overwhelming the lager. This is just a lovely beer and worth a try even if you’re already a fan of smoke.
Next in the lineup is Aecht Schlenkerla Märzen. Smoke is prominent in this amber lager, described by some as a campfire in a glass. The underlying beer is a märzen-style lager, commonly known in this country as Oktoberfest. Dark bread and caramel malt provide complementary support for the almost meaty smoke. Low bitterness and a dusting of spicy hop flavor offer a pleasing contrast.
Aecht Schlenkerla Urbock is like a richer and stronger version of the märzen. It pours dark amber and has a smooth, creamy texture. Burnt toffee malt is the headliner with overtones of roast that perfectly complement the meaty smoke. Hints of raisiny dried fruit lurk in the background.