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It’s early morning and I’m taking a stroll through the rambling gardens of Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel, following an exceptionally relaxing massage. Birds sing in the trees, the air is fragrant with jasmine and lavender, and as I walk back to my splendidly appointed room, passing ancient olive groves, swaying palms and rows of orange trees, the contented murmurs of guests enjoying their breakfast provides a distant soundtrack. I may be luxuriating in a quiet, personal moment, but I’m also feeling intimately connected to my glorious surroundings. In the appropriate travel-industry parlance, this is what’s called slow luxury and – in case you haven’t heard – it’s very much the current currency of high-end hospitality, driven by the understanding that excellent food, impeccable service and first-class amenities are no longer enough for the most discerning of patrons. They also require emotional connection and authentic experiences of their hotel stays. You could say this particular property is the standard-bearer for such qualities in these parts. Situated in the island’s rural north east, this 300-year-old finca first opened its doors to guests in 2004, effectively kickstarting the high-end agroturismo trend here with its then-groundbreaking promise of farm-to-fork dining and sylvan escapism. In the ensuing two decades, numerous pretenders have appeared, many promising a comparable kind of experience, but none – so swear the legions of fans who return every year, including celebs such as Kate Hudson and Luke Evans – can match the singular appeal of the OG. After less the 24 hours, I can see what the fuss is about. Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel presents another side of Ibiza, one that’s wilder and more soulful than the shiny, high-energy version of the island that many visitors will be familiar with, and it’s made all the more beguiling now that the summer season has wound down, and the tempo has slowed even further. With a season that runs from March to November, the hotel was built exactly for these quieter moments after the crowds have departed. I have to admit, back in late September, when I first received an invitation for an autumn visit to Ibiza, I was, well, a little hesitant. At the time, Storm Alice was wreaking havoc across the Balearic isle, gusty winds and heavy rainfall flooding the streets (not to mention the toilets of DC-10) and even forcing some hotels on the island to close early for the season. ‘What would be waiting for us?’, I thought. Well, I certainly wasn’t expecting this. The sun is still warm on the skin, the gardens are bursting with colour, and the day is alive with possibilities. Prior to 2004, Atzaró Agroturismo Hotel was a fully working farm, and despite numerous upgrades that have taken place over the years, including the addition of some newer pool suites and an expanding range of wellness options, great care has been taken to preserve the authenticity of the place. The grounds feel more like those of a sprawling, country estate than a purpose-built resort – squint and you could be in Tuscany – and the welcome you receive as you’re shown to your quarters, like that of a dear returning friend, reinforce the homely feel. Of the 24 suites and rooms, around half are clustered around the finca, joined by a maze of narrow walkways and tiny courtyards, and they all share a similar rustic-yet-refined aesthetic, with white plaster walls and local sabina wood beams complementing the sizeable teak beds. Autumn is the perfect time for unhurried walks in the surrounding pine forests and long al fresco lunches, enjoying the fantastic food that is a hallmark of the Atzaró brand. The vast majority of produce used by the kitchens of its various restaurants – both within the hotel grounds and beyond – is grown in an impressive three-hectare vegetable garden hidden in the estate and it makes a profound difference to the slick Mediterranean cooking. Everything simply tastes fantastic. For those in the mood for a little culinary road trip, Atzaró Group’s charming restaurant, Aubergine by Atzaró, is only short drive away, and, let me tell you, the artichoke flower dish, smothered in tomato and roasted garlic sauce with Tallegio cheese is well worth the journey. Of courses you could simply spend your time lazing on the many daybeds that are hidden around the 13-hectare estate, working up a sweat before taking a dip in the spectacular 43-meter pool. But as for us? Well, we’re headed to the beach. Just a 15-minute drive away, Cala Nova is, without a doubt, one of the most picturesque stretches of sand on Ibiza, and it’s also home to Atzaró Beach, the group’s super beach club. It’s here that we have decided to enjoy a glorious final afternoon sipping watermelon margaritas on the sun deck, before retiring to the restaurant for a late and lazy Rose-fuelled lunch of seafood paella. Atzaró Beach is one my favourite-looking beach clubs on the island (think reclaimed driftwood and straw parasols) and if there’s a more delightful spot to be on a late autumn afternoon then I’m yet to find it, your eyes closed and the waves lapping gently like a heart beating, all thoughts of London evaporating in the sunshine. Rates start from £316. Book it here
