By Rosalind Erskine

Copyright scotsman

When Ronnie Clydesdale opened the Ubiquitous Chip in its original location of Ruthven Lane – a ‘glorified electrician’s yard’ in 1971 – it was with the ambition to celebrate the very best of Scottish produce. Decades before chefs and restaurateurs were showcasing local, seasonal and Scottish produce, Mr Clydesdale was doing just that and it proved so popular that the Chip, as it is affectionately known, moved to its Ashton Lane premises in 1976, where it has remained ever since. Now, after Ronnie’s son Colin sold the business to the Metropolitan Pub Group in 2022, the restaurant and bar, which is home to a number of Alasdair Gray artworks, has reopened after a £1.2million refurbishment, which includes larger kitchens, refreshed seating areas and a brand new roof. While you might not spot it right away, you feel the presence of the new roof when entering the restaurant, as it seems lighter and brighter – like when you clean your glasses after being out in the rain. The Koi Karp pond seems to bubble more vigorously, the abundance of foliage and plants are at a small jungle level and everything – from the newer tables and flowing space to the seats upstairs and down – looks brighter, shiner. It’s like everything has been turned up to 11. Especially the piper on arrival who then piped in the start of the meal. “I think I’ve just seen Ronnie’s ghost” says a dining companion, visibly emotional at this, his enduring legacy. The interiors are going to be a salve to anyone worried about this restaurant’s new-ish owners – and there have been worries. It looks and feels pretty much the same. but better, as does the menu. The kitchen is still under the watchful eye of head chef Doug Lindsay, who has led The Chip’s kitchen for more than 20 years. We sat down to an eight course tasting menu, with wonderful wine pairings introduced by the excellent sommelier Dan Dorsett. Favourite dishes included the trout belly tartar; sauteed mushroom and confit egg yolk broth and Shetland cod with oyster emulsion. This menu is available alongside a range of others in the restaurant, brasserie and big pub. And yes, the famous haggis, neeps and tatties are still available as is the honey oatmeal ice cream. Other dishes include a haggis sausage roll, and fried tatties with mojo verde;beef tartar, monkfish cheek kebab and buttermilk fried chicken waffles; and desserts, including roasted pistachio tiramisu, Earl Grey crème brulee, a whisky parfait and caramelised fig. Guests dining in the restaurant will be able to choose from a seasonal a la carte menu and a new tasting menu, which is delicious, with fresh fish and seafood coming from local supplier John Vallance and top-quality vegetables from Renfrewshire-based Barnhill Farm. A selection of herbs and spices to complete the menu have also been foraged by Maxime Cour Sauvage. The Alasdair Gray mural on the main back wall is still needing work to be restored, making it look like it has just been unearthed. Another of his paintings has been uncovered at the door. This is the past coming face to face with the present, ghosts or no ghosts. And it still tastes as good as it ever did.