Copyright theage
One hotpot origin myth is that 13th-century Mongol warriors upturned their helmets over fire to poach mutton. True or not, the huge south-western mountain city of Chongqing, at the confluence of the Yangtze and Jialing rivers, has long been known for the dish. Animals arrived by boat, the prized cuts went to the wealthy, and the scrappers cooked odd bits in pots of hot beef tallow enriched with odour-suppressing spices. About 100 years ago, this robust street-eat found its way into restaurants. The basic structure is simple: a pot of broth is heated over a tabletop burner and raw ingredients are provided for diners to cook. Once done, swipe through dipping sauce and eat. It’s convivial, fun and endlessly customisable – and no, you don’t drink the broth. That would be like drinking chip-fryer oil. BiZu is one of Melbourne’s best examples of the genre. Owner Jaden Lei has a long history in the trade. His mother, Chen Ma, started a nameless Chongqing street-hotpot place in 1995, soon dubbed BiZu (“pioneer”) by a customer who appreciated her commitment to tradition. Lei expanded the business dramatically: there are 78 BiZu franchises across China and now this foray into Australia. The signature Chongqing broth is mala – “numbing and spicy” – packed with chilli heat and Sichuan pepper. If a broth can be honest, this one is a straight-talker: sparkling, clean, balanced and punchy, with nuance that allows room for other flavours to shine. (Spice-phobes can choose mild, milky, beef-bone broth instead or as well, served in a divided pot.)
