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The Sumida River Terrace in eastern Tokyo offers respite from the city’s buzz. Sprawling, chaotic, magnetic Tokyo can wear out even the most seasoned traveler. I’m no stranger to the Tokyo burnout, and I know running on vending machine coffee, adrenaline and treating jet lag like a suggestion only works for about a week. My overstimulation often reaches its Mount Fuji–rivaling peak after one too many dinners at no-frills izakayas packed with suited-up salarymen, somehow leading to partying in Shinjuku Ni-chome (Tokyo’s gay district), followed by bleary mornings under the unforgiving fluorescent glow of convenience stores. No matter how you hit that breaking point—whether it’s standing in long lines for viral rainbow-colored street food in Harajuku, late-night karaoke in Shibuya or all of the above—craving a few hours of stillness is probably in the cards for you too. But don’t believe everything you read in the guidebooks. You don’t have to wake up at the crack of dawn to skip the pre-dawn crowds at Meiji Shrine or trek to the countryside to practice shinrin-yoku (forest bathing) for a soul cleanse. Just take a train east to Kuramae, a creative pocket of Taito Ward sandwiched between lively Asakusa, home to the ever-crowded Sensoji Temple, and Asakusabashi, a largely tourist-free neighborhood known for its traditional doll shops that’s so under the radar even Tokyoites sometimes think I’ve mispronounced Asakusa. Kuramae's quiet streets are dotted with hip cafes and artisan studios. Alex Catarinella Once filled with rice granaries during the Edo period, the Kuramae of today is often dubbed “Tokyo’s Brooklyn,” a neighborhood where a slew of buzzy coffee shops take their craft seriously. But craftsmanship here runs deeper than latte art. Kuramae’s narrow streets brim with artisan studios and small boutiques that showcase made-in-Japan artistry and embody the Japanese concept of monozukuri (the art of making things), from handmade leather goods to washi tape. And while this little neighborhood is better known for its creative energy than sightseeing, a stroll along the Sumida River Terrace offers serenity and unbeatable views of the Tokyo Skytree and Philippe Starck’s golden Asahi Beer Hall shimmering across the water. Escape the dizzying megacity you see on TikTok—no bullet train ticket required—and spend a day in one of Tokyo’s best-kept secret neighborhoods, where quiet charm rewards those who slow down. Start Your Day at Kuramae’s Best Coffee Shops and Breakfast Spots Coffee Wrights Kuramae is a neighborhood favorite known for its house-roasted coffee and easygoing vibe. Coffee Wrights Kuramae Coffee Wrights Kuramae’s ground floor features a factory-like setting. Coffee Wrights Kuramae Kickstart your morning with a cup of freshly roasted specialty coffee at Coffee Wrights Kuramae, a neighborhood favorite tucked away on a sleepy residential corner since 2017. Downstairs, baristas perfect pour-overs beside a massive factory-size roaster in an industrial space. Upstairs is made for lingering, with sunlight spilling across rustic-chic interiors and prime window seats overlooking a park where children zip down slides and dogs tug at their leashes. As you head out, the aroma of roasted cacao might lure you around the corner, where you’ll find Dandelion Chocolate Factory & Cafe, a sleek San Francisco transplant that’s become something of a local landmark. Camera is a cozy cafe offering scones, smoothies and leather goods. Alex Catarinella If chocolate’s not your thing, grab a bite at Camera, a hip yet mellow counter-service cafe run by ballerina and pastry shop owner Miwako Yamada and designer Kosuke Tamura. Expect a tempting counter display of baked goods, with the hojicha and sakura scones as must-orders—if they haven’t sold out. Craving dessert for breakfast? Go for the matcha ice cream scone sandwich. Elsewhere on the menu are Spam onigiri, cheese toasts, curry plates and smoothies. Before you leave, browse the locally made leather bags and accessories up front. I also highly recommend throwing a carrot cake muffin in your tote for later. Shop or Create Your Own Handcrafted Treasures in Kuramae Kakimori's colorful shelves of notebooks, inks and writing tools are designed to ignite your creativity. In Kuramae, the indie lifestyle stores could even inspire the least shopping-inclined. Start at Kakimori, a bright and airy stationery spot specializing in writing tools, notebooks and original inks. Here, design your own custom notebook with various covers, papers and bindings, all assembled on-site in just minutes. To really go all out and immerse yourself in Japanese craftsmanship, make a reservation for a pigment ink-mixing class at the Kakimori Inkstand next door. Mt Lab's Instagram-worthy walls are covered in colorful washi tape rolls. Alex Catarinella Then visit Mt Lab, a highly Instagrammable shop devoted to washi tape, Japan’s signature decorative masking tape made from soft, textured paper. The shop’s white walls burst with kaleidoscopic color, lined with rows of washi tape rolls in bold metallics, minimalist neutrals and playful patterns. A must for design lovers and stationery enthusiasts, it’s also great for picking up affordable, uniquely Japanese gifts for friends back home. Don’t miss the limited-edition artist collaborations. Finally, pop into Koncent, a design-driven concept store that feels like Tokyo’s answer to the MoMA Design Store. Inside, you’ll find inventive home goods and lifestyle pieces like sculptural vases, incense holders, moisturizing gloves, head-turning tableware and plenty more you never knew you needed but will definitely want to take home. Savor a Sustainable Lunch, Riverside Views and a Sweet Slice of Calm Part restaurant and part workshop space, Elab focuses on sustainability and supporting local businesses. Elab’s seasonal root vegetable bowl reflects its focus on local, sustainable ingredients. Alex Catarinella For lunch, pull up a counter seat facing the open kitchen at Elab and order from a menu built around locally and ethically sourced ingredients, from seasonal soups and fresh vegetable bowls to baked goods made with repurposed cocoa husks, a byproduct often discarded during chocolate production. Run in co-op style by several young creatives, the sustainability-minded multipurpose hub also features a zero-waste market selling many of the same carefully chosen ingredients, seasonings and dried goods used in the kitchen. Beyond the menu, Elab invites guests in on the sustainability action through workshops, from kintsugi (the art of repairing ceramics with gold) classes to clothing and electronics repair sessions. Walks along the Sumida River Terrace offer a peaceful escape from the city’s energy. Japan Stock Photos/Universal Images Group via Getty Images When you’re ready to walk it off, make your way to the Sumida River Terrace and head north toward Asakusa, where foot traffic stays light and trains rumble across bridges in the distance. On the opposite side of the river, the glassy silhouette of Tokyo Skytree towers over Sumida Ward, home to the city’s historic sumo stables in Ryogoku. You’ll also spot the Asahi Beer Hall and its Philippe Starck–designed golden Asahi Flame sculpture, colloquially called the “Golden Turd” or “Poo Building.” Indulge in delightful desserts at Cafe Meursault. Cafe Meursault Once you reach Asakusa, climb Cafe Meursault’s greenery-spilling stairs and enter a Parisian-style hideaway perched above the water. Settle into a coveted window seat or terrace table for mesmeric views of the Skytree and that gilded icon. As for the menu? The lovely cafe’s 20-plus cake selection is almost as decadent as the view itself. Don’t sleep on the crème brûlée, which pairs perfectly with another coffee. The observation deck at the Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center offers sweeping views of Sensoji Temple. Alex Catarinella By now, you’re just steps from Sensoji Temple. Avoid the crowds, cross the street to the Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center and take the elevator up to the free observation deck for panoramic views of the temple—minus the chaos below. Wind Down at a Traditional Bathhouse and a Gin Distillery Kotobuki-yu is a tattoo-friendly sento open since 1952 in Higashi Ueno. Kotobuki-yu Now that you’ve captured a killer shot for Instagram, you might think it’s time to wrap up your day. But you’d be missing out on a couple of great ways to wind down after wandering eastern Tokyo. Consider kicking back with gin-based cocktails at Stage, the atmospheric bar above The Ethical Spirits & Co. distillery in Kuramae, where the team crafts sustainable Japanese gins infused with botanicals and herbs grown in its rooftop garden. Or soak off the day at Kotobuki-yu, a tattoo-friendly sento (public bathhouse) open since 1952 in nearby Higashi Ueno. Just be sure to Google sento etiquette beforehand. Both offer the perfect way to end a day spent exploring one of Tokyo’s most compelling corners. Editorial StandardsReprints & Permissions
