Culture

The best things we ate (and drank) this week

The best things we ate (and drank) this week

Cold brew (Taylor’s version) at Loretta’s
As a “little treat culture”-obsessed Gen-Z, I love nothing more than getting an overpriced novelty beverage and Taylor Swift. This week, my two favorite things melded at Loretta’s in Old City, which is offering a limited-edition cold brew inspired by Swift’s latest album, The Life of A Showgirl, through Sunday. A play on the album’s orange-and-light green color palette, the cold brew is infused with orange-brown sugar syrup and topped with a thick pistachio cold foam that comes out in just the right shade of seafoam. The drink tastes like a really big Yankee Candle in the best way, with the smooth, nutty foam mixing with the citrus to create an aromatic, slightly sweet sip. Plus, every time I looked down at the orange sprinkle and glitter garnish, I couldn’t help but smile. A little bit of whimsy goes a long way. Loretta’s, 410 S. 2nd St., Philadelphia, PA 19147; (no phone); lorettasphilly.com
— Beatrice Forman
Vongole pan pizza at Alice Pizza
You can go to Alice Pizza many times without eating the same thing twice, from the by-the-ounce slices for takeout to the sit-down menu served across the bar. But in the summer, there’s one must-get for me: the clam pizza.
If you’ve had a New Haven-style clam pie, this is nothing like that. It starts with the restaurant’s usual pizza dough in a 10-by-10-inch pan, with mozzarella cheese and sliced cherry tomatoes as the base. Steamed littleneck clams go on top — and the cooks don’t skimp. The bivalves are still in their split-open shells and doused with garlic, basil, and chili flakes. Alice co-owner Gigio Longo gets the clams delivered daily in season from the Virginia tip of the Delmarva peninsula. Some people take the meat out to top the slices. I prefer eating straight from the shells, alternating a few clams with each slice. It’s the best way to slurp the juice: a briny, spicy shot of the ocean in the middle of Center City.
Sadly, the run for the year ended this week. But file it away for next summer. All their other pizzas — and the gelato and pastries — will tide you over until then. Alice Pizza, 235 S. 15th St., 215-545-2020, instagram.com/alicepizza.philadelphia
— Jonathan Tannenwald
Cornbread cupcakes with candied yam icing at Philly Fashion Week
A tower of mini cupcakes individually garnished with what appeared to be fried shrimp sparked my curiosity the moment I walked into Philly Fashion Week. In high heels that pinched my feet, I hobbled across the runway to get a better look. The savory delight was worth the pain. Infinite Catering NJ executive chef Chef Rashaun Scudder’s Soul Food Cupcakes are sweet dollops of cornbread piped with candied yam icing. And yes, they were topped with shrimp: butterflied, fried in panko breadcrumbs, and drizzled with hot honey. Scudder’s Soul Food Cupcakes also come with fried catfish, fried chicken, and grilled shrimp. They are small bites, so a second is a must. Pair it with a Cajun salad sandwich croissant (also pictured) and your seafood-faring tastebuds will thank you. Infinite Catering NJ, 1931 Olney Ave., Suite 200, Cherry Hill, N.J. 08003; 856-796-2175, instagram.com/infinitecateringnj
— Elizabeth Wellington
The ‘Lady Wook’ fried chicken sandwich at Poison Heart
I met a friend at this moody — i.e. dark as hell — Callowhill bar before a show at Franklin Music Hall and had to raise the menu to literal candlelight to be able to read it. (For reference, I’m in my 30s.) I ordered the Lady Wook sandwich, part of the bar’s collab with the traveling Poe’s Sandwich Joint. Thankfully, my eyes adjusted by the time the food came, and what a sight to behold.
Fried chicken, Cooper Sharp, and pickles made a solid, flavorful base, but the stars of this dimly lit show were the sauce (dilly, housemade ranch spiked with hot sauce) and the seeded roll from South Philly dynasty Sarcone’s: chewy and crunchy, and sturdy enough to hold the cutlets tight. The thin-cut fries, ordered separately, came with “house horsey mayo” that was equally great.
The Jump in the Fire cocktail paired well with the Wook: Its mezcal, reposado tequila, mango, lime, chipotle demerara, habanero, and chamoy-tajin rim made a spicy-sweet counterpart to the sandwich. It’s no wonder the bar made our list of best cocktails spots in Philadelphia. Poison Heart, 931 Spring Garden St., Philadelphia, PA 19123; no phone; poisonheartbar.com
— Julie Zeglen
Jerk chick’n over brown rice and gravy at the Nile Cafe
For someone who went vegetarian many years ago, to be able to once again enjoy the flavors of traditional Caribbean jerk is a godsend — all thanks to this vegan soul food specialist in Germantown. Tear into the jerk chick’n here and the vegan soy protein splits apart like it’s the real thing. Forget the fork and pull the drumsticks off the skewer with your teeth for a crunchy exterior revealing a seasoned and soft inside. The fluffy bed of rice topped in gravy helps everything meld; you’ll want to savor each bite. Plus, after the meal, you have one of the city’s most idyllic walks through Northwest Philly’s most historic neighborhood. The Nile Cafe, 6008 Germantown Ave., Philadelphia, Pa. 19144; 215-843-6453; nilevegancafe.com