By Katie Lockhart
Copyright independent
Hanoi’s blend of beeping motorbikes, charcoal grill-scented sidewalks and crumbling French colonial architecture makes it one of Southeast Asia’s most alluring capitals. Known as the cultural, political and culinary heartbeat of Vietnam, it doesn’t take travellers long to fall in love with its charm.
Not as cosmopolitan or congested as its southern counterpart, Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi allows travellers to dip their toe into the sensory overload of this fascinating country. Spend days strolling around Hoan Kiem Lake as locals practice Tai Chi, wandering the many manicured gardens of the famous Temple of Literature and perusing the goods on the 36 artisan-centric streets of Old Quarter. And when jet lag kicks in and bed comes calling, there are plenty of places to rest.
Options abound, from expat-packed Tay Ho to the quaint Old Quarter; Hanoi has everything from maximalist luxury to pared-down boutique stays. After dozens of visits to the capital, these are some of my favourite Hanoi home bases.
You’ll likely need a few moments to take in all the gilded glitz that is Capella Hanoi. Designed by Bangkok-based hotel darling Bill Bensley, everything here is over-the-top perfection. An homage to the heyday of the nearby Opera House and the whimsy of the “Roaring Twenties”, velvet red furniture, mirrored surfaces, tasselled light fixtures and towering statues decorate spaces here. Its 47 suites are no different, with opera antiques, bold patterned furniture, hand-painted wall murals and dreamy bathtubs. It also has some of the best restaurants and bars in the city, from its Michelin-star Japanese restaurant Koki to its Grand Central Station-style rooftop bar.
Address: 11 P. Lê Phụng Hiểu, French Quarter, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội 100000, Vietnam
Highlights: Luxury stay
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Jutting out over the city’s West Lake, the InterContinental provides a peaceful reprieve from Hanoi’s hustle. Designed to look like a blooming lotus flower from above, it has 359 rooms and suites, most built overwater, and all with uninterrupted balcony views overlooking the city. Interiors are comfortable and contemporary with dark wood, cream colours and subtle Vietnamese touches, like hanging lantern lights and local art. There are seemingly endless amenities here, including a large outdoor pool, a 24/7 fitness centre, a steam room and a sauna, plus six restaurants and bars. After a day of sightseeing, the overwater Sunset Bar shakes and stirs up a mean Vietnamese-inspired cocktail.
Address: 05 P. Từ Hoa, Quảng An, Tây Hồ, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Highlights: Scenic views
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On the edge of Hanoi’s Old Town is a budget-friendly boutique hotel with five-star service. Its 46 rooms are spacious for its tightly packed location, with stylish wainscoting, dark teak flooring, pops of red and clawfoot tubs. In a nod to its address on Hanoi’s “Brick Alley,” some rooms even have brick walls. But most importantly, the beds are supremely comfortable, and rooms offer peace and quiet from the street noise below. It also has a spa, restaurant and cafe where you can try the city’s signature egg coffee. And the warm staff here are excited to point you in the direction of their favourite street food or quaint cafe.
Address: 7 Ng. Gạch, Hàng Buồm, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội 10000, Vietnam
Highlights: Best for budget travellers
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Colour and character decorate every inch of this Old Quarter hotel, helmed by an exceptionally friendly team of young Hanoians. Guests are greeted with a smile and a quirky lobby outfitted with a sparkling pink chandelier, mirrored gold ceilings and bright blues and oranges. But things take a visual chill pill when you enter their 65 rooms and suites. Turquoise curtains, Vietnamese hanging lanterns and red lacquer bedside tables decorate each. But the hotel really shines when you reach its rooftop. Le Ciel Sky Bar’s daily happy hour specials, innovative cocktails, killer spring rolls and sweeping Hanoi views make it one of the city’s best rooftop bars.
Address: 35 P. Hàng Trống, Phường, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Highlights: Best for sunset drinks
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Once you step inside this French Quarter hotel, look up. Its soaring eight-storey indoor atrium is a city first and adds dramatic flair to accompany its namesake opera theme. Constructed with Paris’ Grand Palais in mind, it has 107 rooms and suites that have moody velvet furniture, bold mosaic tile bathrooms and a distinctly European style. It has two restaurants and a bar, serving absinthe cocktails and afternoon tea, plus a spa, fitness centre and the city’s only heated pool. This Accor property is in the thick of it, just steps from Kem Tràng Tiền, the city’s most famous ice cream parlour and Hoan Kiem Lake.
Address: 29 Tràng Tiền, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội 010000, Vietnam
Highlights: Best for culture vultures
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Sporting a prime Old Quarter address, this boutique hotel works off a less-is-more vibe. Wooden floors mix with charcoal greys, rattan furniture and white corniced ceilings for a clean and sophisticated look, while bathrooms are decked out in black subway tiles and trendy fixtures. Breakfast here is served in its Art Deco-style restaurant, but duck outside where, a few doors down, Cafe Giang is credited with inventing the famous egg coffee. After a street food tour or the Hanoi Train Street, head to the 10th and 11th floors, where the hotel’s Lighthouse Sky Bar (designed to look like a boat) slings fruit-filled cocktails as the sun sets.
Address: No. 27A P. Hàng Bè, Phố cổ Hà Nội, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội 10000, Vietnam
Highlights: Best for an Old Quarter stay
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Boutique stays aren’t your thing? Book in at this Mövenpick near the city’s infamous Train Street for a tried and true chain stay. Its 155 rooms and suites are relatively nondescript, with soft cream colours, a plush bed and a separate shower and bath perfect for kiddos. But the best part of a stay here is the perks. Little ones will love the complimentary daily chocolate hour and splashing in the vibrant-tiled pool while parents partake in the rum cocktails served poolside. It’s also home to one of the city’s more unique restaurants, O Macanese, an homage to Macau’s Portuguese and Cantonese fusion cuisine.
Address: 83A P. Lý Thường Kiệt, Cửa Nam, ward, Hà Nội 100000, Vietnam
Highlights: Best for families
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The glamorous Grand Dame of Hanoi, the Hotel Metropole, became the country’s premier place to stay when it opened in 1901. Welcoming the world’s dignitaries and celebrities from A to Z, a stay here carries some cachet—especially the Charlie Chaplin or Graham Greene suites. There are a whopping 364 rooms, and its heritage wing has recently undergone an elegant Belle Epoque refurb. Its six restaurants and bars serve everything from fine-dining French to rare whiskeys. And while its Old Quarter locale puts you near the city’s major historic attractions, don’t skip the daily tour of the hotel’s hidden bomb shelter dating back to the American War.
Address: 15 P. Ngô Quyền, Tràng Tiền, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội 100000, Vietnam
Highlights: Best for history
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Every building in Hanoi holds a story, and 17A Tran Hung Dao is no different. Built in 1936 by a French architect named Syloia, it was later bought by a Vietnamese couple and turned into the refined city escape you’ll find today. Views from its floor-to-ceiling windows offer the perfect wake-up call south of the French Quarter. Its 33 rooms have noise-proof windows, sky-high ceilings, four-poster beds and roomy French-inspired bathrooms that give off a certain je ne sais quoi. De Syloia has a small gym, steam and sauna and an airy all-day dining restaurant with breakfast pho and fresh tropical fruit. The hotel’s tucked-away locale means you’ll need to fuel up to walk the 20-ish minutes to the Old Quarter.
Address:17A Trần Hưng Đạo, Phan Chu Trinh, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội 100000, Vietnam
Highlights: Best for couples
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Hanoi loves its heritage, so this ultra-modern, all-glass Marriott is a stark departure from the norm. Designed with an ancient dragon in mind, this mammoth hotel is perched on a small lake with 450 rooms and suites. This luxe hotel doesn’t skimp on style with dark wood surfaces, marble bathrooms and pillowy beds. In a hotel with so many rooms, you can bet there are plenty of amenities, including a rooftop spa, fitness centre, indoor pool and whirlpool, all with skyline views. Its Executive Lounge is the perfect place for a meeting, as is a business lunch at John Anthony Cantonese Grill & Dim Sum.
Address: No 8 Do Duc Duc Road Tu Liem Ward, Hanoi, Hà Nội 100000, Vietnam
Highlights: Best for business travel
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The hotels featured in this list have been carefully selected by The Independent’s expert travel writer, Katie Lockhart, who has a deep knowledge of Vietnam. All our hotels contributors either live in these locations or visit frequently, ensuring a personal and informed perspective. When picking which hotels to include, they consider their own experience staying in the hotels and evaluate location, facilities, service and all the other details that make for an exceptional stay for all types of traveller.
What currency do I need?
Vietnam runs on cash, so be sure to take out a wad of Vietnamese dong from the ATM.
From September to November, Hanoi is at its best with pleasant temperatures, less smog and little rain.
Hanoi is Vietnam’s capital city, making it its political hub. But it also has a long and storied history peppered with French colonisation and wartime stories. Today, it’s a bastion of Vietnamese culture, cafes and cuisine.
The Old Quarter is arguably the best place to base yourself, making it easy to walk to various attractions (like St. Joseph’s Cathedral and Train Street) and its street food stalls.
