The kitchen skillfully prepares apps, sides and desserts such as barbecue wings, mac and cheese, collard greens and peach cobbler. Just as much of a draw are mains, in which Angelea’s carries several Southern comforts that can be elusive in the Twin Cities. We didn’t have to wait in line long to observe the most in-demand items, and soon enough got to see what the hype was all about. The smoked turkey leg ($15), bold in smokiness, is fall-off-the-bone and so colossal that it was easily shareable as the main event when building a take-home meal.
We could also see why the smothered chicken ($10 a la carte, $20 with two generous helpings of sides and corn bread) was also a top seller. Juicy, fall-apart braised chicken was meltingly lovely, as was the roux-based, copper-hued gravy. And the hint of acid-heat reminiscent of Tabasco or Frank’s RedHot was a nice touch. It was a wonderfully balanced bite and the thing I’ve been telling people is a must-order.
One thing about Minnesota, we appreciate our small town bakeries. Red Wing definitely appreciates Hanisch Bakery. Even on an afternoon, there was a polite line of folks willing to wait patiently to purchase their favorite treats. The large cases are lined with all the hallmarks: Halloween-decorated sugar cookies, bars, coffee cake, turnovers and a dizzying array of doughnuts.
The strawberry blossom ($2.50) is particularly beguiling, with yeasted dough twisted and cut to bloom in the fryer, blushing with the strawberry-flavored center. The whole business gets coated in just the right amount of glaze. It’s the kind of bite that makes a person want to share the goodness with a neighbor. That’s the power of these sweet places. (Joy Summers)
Brit’s Pub features the U.K. mainstay of chips and curry on both the happy hour (3:30-5:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri.) ($8.45) and regular menus ($15.50). An order here, a heaping plate that overflows with fries and a cup full of curry, is sizable and easily shareable for four or more.
The traditional U.K-style fries, thick pieces that are fluffy and creamy in the middle, paired with the savory and mild heat from the curry and other warming spices, is a solid combination. So much so that next time I order fries and curry sauce is available, it might edge out my other previous favorites. Especially when craving something comforting that warms the belly. (N.N.)
Rolling down the Great River Road, with views that alternate between water, river bluffs and trees turning from green to golden, is an annual autumnal tradition. The only thing that makes a back road amble better than the views, is the promise of a great bite found somewhere off the beaten path.
Years ago, my husband and I found ourselves on the grassy lawn of the Harbor Bar in Hager City, Wis. There’s a marina and views of downtown Red Wing, but the location feels like the kind of place you have to know about to find. It’s worth the discovery for the jerk-seasoned, grilled dishes coming out of this kitchen. In the summer, the place can get packed. But on a quiet fall afternoon, we had the place to ourselves and the grilled pork chop sandwich ($16.58) was served with a quickness — and a side of house made French fries. The charred exterior is doused with that signature sauce — rich in herbs, garlic and pepper. (J.S.)
Pastry chef Bettina Gronning joined Picnic Linden Hills this summer and has already created a stunner of a cake ($12) inspired by Vietnamese coffee. She pairs the darkest black cocoa crumb — moist, not too sweet, and incidentally gluten-free — with a frosting made from sweetened condensed milk that she caramelizes for more than two hours. The clincher is what comes on the side: a little ramekin of warm coffee anglaise brewed with beans from Càphin Mpls.
Gronning says she dreamed it up after serving Vietnamese coffees at a catering gig. “The flavor just lodged in my brain and I thought, I just gotta make this into a cake,” she said. The result rivals Yum’s iconic Patticake for richness and that pure can’t-stop-taking-another-bite pull. Dip a chilled forkful into the warm, coffee-scented sauce, and it hits like an affogato with a bold and silky caffeine buzz. (Sharyn Jackson)