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The view from Granada’s Iglesia de la Merced, or “Church of Mercy” Vicky Smith Nicaragua isn’t an obvious vacation destination. It suffers from the reputation of its tumultuous past—including the Nicaraguan Revolution, which ended in 1990 after killing tens of thousands and further devastating the economy—and its controversial, increasingly authoritarian, president Daniel Ortega. Yet looking behind the headlines and giving this diverse, tropical nation a chance yields many rewards. It’s hot and sunny year-round (even during the rainy season from June to October), one of Latin America’s cheapest countries to visit and really does have something for all. I explored Nicaragua with Lupine Travel, which specializes in under-the-radar destinations and unconventional perspectives; our fascinating five-day tour spanned moving encounters with freedom fighters to the country’s more “touristy” charms. But Nicaragua is also very doable independently and is jam-packed with delights: from candy-colored cities and volcanic vistas to festivities that are quite literally larger than life (one includes a giantess). Nicaragua is nicknamed “the land of lakes and volcanoes” Vicky Smith However you choose to visit, Nicaragua won’t disappoint. Here’s a taster of what to expect… Colonial Cities Spanish colonialism in Latin America was damaging in myriad ways, not least its subjugation and exploitation of local people—yet arguably one positive legacy is the aesthetic appeal of its towns and cities. Built to impress, with a mix of European and native architecture, many colonial city centers possess a distinct charm: low candy-colored buildings, red tiled roofs and cobblestone streets that bristle with life. Granada (main image) is a prime example. I loved strolling around its market, where speakers pump out reggaetón, fruit vendors sell hairy rambutans like sea urchins and dogs drowse in the heat. Other highlights include San Francisco Convent Museum, featuring collections on Nicaraguan culture among verdant courtyards, and sampling vigorón—a specialty with boiled yuca and crispy pork rinds, topped with zesty cabbage. A stronghold in the Nicaraguan Revolution, Léon is now a lively university city that’s ideal for wandering Vicky Smith Léon is another stunner, whose cathedral bell tower we climbed just before sunset; cue distant smoking volcanoes under a fiery sky, great flocks of swirling pigeons and the pop of fireworks to herald Immaculate Conception festivities (more of which below). Natural Oases Nicknamed “the land of lakes and volcanoes,” Nicaragua is an adventurer’s paradise: replete with opportunities to hike, kayak, zipline and even volcano board. Beach lovers are spoiled for options too, from Pacific surfing meccas such as San Juan del Sur to the Caribbean idyll of the Corn Islands. Not far from Granada, Masaya Volcano National Park boasts a bubbling lava lake, lagoon and craters galore—while Mombacho Volcano Natural Reserve offers cloud-forest treks, and Ometepe Island spans ancient petroglyphs to chocolate farms. Adrenaline junkie? Close to Léon, you can even speed down the side of Cerro Negro volcano on a specially designed board. Artist Alberto by the entrance to Finca El Jalacate Vicky Smith We missed the above, however did visit Finca El Jalacate in the mountains near Estelí. Here, over several decades, artist Alberto Gutiérrez has carved sculptures into the cliff face near his home, resulting in a tableaux unlike any other. Now in his 80s, Alberto loves showing off his eccentric abode: also home to a riot of plants—bananas, pineapples, coffee, orchids—and critters such as weaver birds and leafcutter ants. From the wafts of sweet lemon to the rustling wind and Swiss-style vistas, it’s an enchanting experience. Christmas Celebrations And Winter Sun The Christmas season in Nicaragua last several weeks, typically beginning in late November with La Purísima (the purest): nine days of prayer to honor the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary. This culminates in La Gritería (the shouting): a colorful blend of music, firecrackers and “trick or treating”—plus parades of La Gigantona (giantess) and Enano Cabezón (big-headed dwarf). These popular figures are a humorous allusion to the supposed height difference between Nicaragua’s Spanish colonizers and the indigenous population. Celebrations continue until the Feast of the Epiphany on 6 January: promising weeks of festivities, feasting and family gatherings. La Gigantona (giantess) and Enano Cabezón (big-headed dwarf) are commonly seen during the Christmas season Vicky Smith Our visit, just before La Gritería, already felt magical: particularly in Léon after dark, when twinkling lights illuminated the streets and stands plied toffee apples. Kids drummed outside the cathedral and a man played maracas by a “Gigantona,” resplendent in a yellow satin dress and tinsel-laden hat. Chaotic and tacky they may be, but I found the floats lining Bolívar Avenue in the capital of Managua just as eye-catching. Expect a profusion of glitter, streamers and very random displays (such as angels flying above airplanes). Neon lights and clashing music add to the strange scene—not to mention the fact you’re walking along in T-shirt temperatures, a Christmas novelty for many Europeans and North Americans. Managua’s floats are bizarre but undeniably eye-catching Vicky Smith Searching for some winter sun, complete with a dusting of Christmas magic? Nicaragua may just be the ticket. Editorial StandardsReprints & Permissions
