By Contributor,Vicky Smith

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Cheltenham has many beautiful green spaces, including Imperial Gardens in Montpellier.
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It’s hard to watch Netflix hit Bridgerton and not be fascinated with Regency Britain. With its big scandals and even bigger wigs, the series whisks viewers through upper-class London at a time of huge social change.

The locations are just as bewitching: elegant classical buildings and landscaped gardens that typify the early 1800s. But while the series was largely shot in London and the UNESCO-listed city of Bath (which this year celebrates the 250th anniversary of Jane Austen’s birthday), I’d argue there’s another place that should have been on the filming list—Cheltenham, known as “England’s most complete Regency town.”

It may have been shunned by Bridgerton, but Cheltenham is well worth a visit, not only for its period architecture and dreamy parks but for its independent spirit and lively event calendar. The “Festival Town” (its other nickname) boasts over 35 fests spanning from horse racing to jazz, science and literature.

It’s a handy base for Cotswolds excursions too—Explore the Cotswolds has some great ideas for trips from Cheltenham, from using public transport to driving the “Romantic Road.” Why not stay somewhere such as No. 131, a boutique hotel in leafy Montpellier, and make a short break of it?

Cheltenham’s Neptune Fountain evokes the Trevi Fountain in Rome.
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Central Cheltenham is very walkable and divided into four main areas. Here’s a taster.

Pittville Park is the jewel in Pittville’s crown, featuring ornamental lakes and a Pump Room that nods to Cheltenham’s heyday as a spa destination; its mineral water was “discovered” by pigeons pecking at salt deposits near a spring in 1716, leading to the town’s development as a fashionable health resort. Pittville is also home to Holst Victorian House, birthplace of composer Gustav Holst, and the iconic Cheltenham Racecourse.

Pittville Pump Room has an eventful past, even housing American soldiers during the Second World War.

Landmarks aside, as with much of Cheltenham, it’s a pleasure simply strolling past stucco townhouses, grand squares and Georgian mansions in honeyed stone. If you fancy a tipple come evening, I recommend dropping into 33 The Rum Bar: a cozy bolt hole with inventive cocktails and board games.

Montpellier

Greek-style caryatids (pillars in the form of armless ladies) and Neptune Fountain, evocative of the Trevi in Italy, give Montpellier a continental European flavor. Gardens are another staple; as Imperial Gardens dazzle with vivid flower displays, Montpellier Gardens host Cheltenham’s top festivals.

Montpellier Gardens host many events, including the renowned Cheltenham Literature Festival.

Traditional markets with striped awnings sell local produce and vintage curios, while the area’s main street Promenade is an enchanting tree-lined thoroughfare surrounded by perfumed upscale boutiques. Indie shopping and dining highlights span Cheltenham Rare Books, a basement wonderland of illustrated tomes and first editions, to The Grape Escape wine bar and the contemporary art oasis Paragon Gallery—where you may be greeted by friendly resident Labrador Tweed.

The High Street

With its generic buildings and chain stores, High Street is, to some, central Cheltenham’s least attractive area. Yet explore a little further and you’ll find pockets of Regency elegance—not to mention, on the border with Montpellier, some of the town’s leading restaurants. Lumiere has earned a Michelin star with its seasonal British cooking, Petit Coco is a beloved French bistro and Journey’s 12-course tasting menu is inspired by the owners’ globetrotting.

Cheltenham High Street features many chain stores.

Need a side of culture with your meal? The High Street district is also home to The Wilson Art Gallery & Museum, which includes a fine Arts and Crafts collection and exhibits on local Antarctic explorer Edward Wilson.

The Suffolks And Tivoli

Artisanal stores and coffee shops, Georgian grandeur, corner pubs…these two neighborhoods have oodles of charm. In this indie haven, you’ll discover everything from illustrators and bohemian cafes to antique emporiums and a Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Champignon Sauvage—all amid Bridgerton-style townhouses and shopfronts in an artist’s palette of colors.

The Suffolks and Tivoli are replete with Georgian architecture.

Don’t miss The Suffolks’ buzzy Sunday Markets for hearty arancini and hand-painted ceramics, or Tivoli treasures like The Department of Hope, Joy & Wonder for more homeware goodies.

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