Copyright National Geographic
Twenty miles south of Nashville’s neon signs, two Tennessee towns have been quietly attracting celebrities and country music stars like Chris Stapleton and Carrie Underwood. Franklin charms with its 19th-century downtown dotted with Southern boutiques, sophisticated dining, and Civil War sites. Nine miles west, the village of Leiper’s Fork landed on the National Register of Historic Places for its “folk vernacular” architecture, which includes simple structures authentic to this rural region. This small community of 650 residents is renowned for its front porch guitar picking, art galleries, and live music. The peaceful pace is a cool glass of sweet tea compared to Nashville’s constant commotion. These two small towns offer visitors the chance to rest, reflect, and reconnect with nature, while embracing creativity and comfort along the Natchez Trace Parkway. (Nashville is one of the hottest destinations in the U.S. Here’s why you should go.) A-list talent perform in small music venues Franklin and Leiper’s Fork are teeming with places that attract up-and-coming music acts and stars. Kimbro’s Pickin’ Parlor, Franklin’s juke joint for 20 years, buzzes with budding musicians amongst poster-plastered walls. Jelly Roll, Jack White, and Greta Van Fleet have jammed in the ragtag stage room, often described as banging and thriving. “Everyone’s [creative] DNA is splattered all over the place,” says owner Will Jordan. Impromptu performances break out on front porches and in back rooms, where guests are astonished to be part of the memory. Jordan credits this to Williamson County’s reputation for leaving its local and visiting celebrities alone. “Magic happens here that’s not advertised,” he adds. “The secret is to keep it humble and chill.” Fox & Locke in Leiper’s Fork hosts an open mic on Thursday nights, which is considered the unofficial gateway to Music City. It attracts talent from young hopefuls to grizzled cowboys, gray-haired crooners, and the occasional Grammy-winning artist. Tickets for evening shows go on sale 30 days in advance and sell out quickly. Meat-n-three’s—meals where you pick a protein, such as pulled pork, and a trio of sides, like collard greens, baked beans, and fried okra—keep bellies satisfied too. (How to spend a day in Nashville, America's soulful southern city.) Music City in the country From intimate indoor attractions to boutique outdoor venues, the heart of this tight-knit creative community draws extraordinary talent. A limestone quarry near Franklin’s horse farms is now the world-class FirstBank Amphitheater. This 7,500-seat, 140-acre venue feels like a nature preserve with ponds, trees, and wildlife. “It’s a one-of-a-kind experience when the walls are lit up at night and the music sounds amazing because it refracts off the rocks,” says Rick McEachern, who converted the space with his wife, Nancy. “You can see every star in the sky.” Well-known singers, such as Chappell Roan, Willie Nelson, Miranda Lambert, and James Taylor, have performed at the amphitheater. Chef-developed peach and prosciutto pizza and bourbon banana pudding are high notes on the menu. To create this space, the team had to remove 900 tons of trash and highway construction debris. The cleanup took six months and cost six figures, but earned the Tennessee Governor’s Award for Environmental Stewardship for Natural Resources. (Meet the female rappers carving out a home in Nashville, America's Music City.) Vintage finds and upscale boutiques In Franklin, restored Victorian storefronts line downtown Franklin’s streets, selling antiques, artisan goods, and classy cowgirl clothing. Shop White’s Mercantile, owned by the granddaughter of country music legend Hank Williams, for high-end gifts, including mallard-stuffed animals and trucker hats with Southern sayings. Find organic room sprays and soy candles at The Green Room, owned by TV host Heather Joel and musician Phil Joel. Swing by Landmark Booksellers to see why several big-name stars frequent this local bookstore. Hint: It has to do with hospitality, which inspired the 2015 Hallmark movie, The Bridge. Or follow in the footsteps of Taylor Swift at Carpe Diem, a vintage vinyl shop, where she bought the seagull sweatshirt that graced the cover of her 1989 album. Owner Will Jordan recalls the day the tall, blonde songstress walked in the door of his hodgepodge store and pointed at the polyester shirt he retrieved from a Kentucky estate sale. Rural village with vibrant arts, music, and culture The creative energy flows westward, where Leiper’s Fork adds notes and brushstrokes to Tennessee’s cultural roots. The small town retains its folksy charm thanks to the passion of its people and philanthropist Aubrey Preston, who also saved Nashville’s legendary RCA Studio A. Peruse fine art at Leiper’s Creek Gallery and David Arms Gallery, and shop curated home goods at Patina Home & Garden. Taste regional wines and small-batch beers at shabby chic Crown Winery Leiper’s Fork or sip craft cocktails at The Tornado Room speakeasy. Then stock up on the statement pieces that country music divas adore at the Tennessee Turquoise Company, where every purchase supports the National Indigenous Women’s Resource Center. Leiper’s Fork Christmas Parade is “almost world famous” for its quirkiness, which includes costumed Corgis and decorated tractors. The festivities take place on the second Saturday in December and draw up to 12,000 spectators. Surprise celebrities, such as Wynonna Judd, serve as grand marshals for this 45-minute spectacle, which includes up to 100 wacky floats. Parade Director Carla Harris encourages visitors to experience Leiper’s Fork and its small-town creativity year-round. Civil War stories History runs deep in the area, including powerful moments that shaped the nation. “The last great military campaign of the Civil War culminated in the Battle of Franklin, which was a hideously violent fight,” says Eric Jacobson, CEO of Carnton. This plantation, which was turned into a Confederate hospital, now hosts tours, including one focused on the institution of slavery and the people subjugated on this site. Walk the 1864 battlefield and view the bullet holes at the Carter House, a family home across the street that was at the epicenter of the chaos. Visitors can learn how the fledgling country grappled with the ideas of liberty and equality. In downtown Franklin, view the March to Freedom statue honoring the United States Colored Troops, facing a public square where enslaved people were sold by their owners. “What could be more noble than a person who’s not even a citizen of the country and has no legal recognition, who fights to free their people, to defend the country, and put down a rebellion,” says Jacobson, who helped bring this project to life. Sustainable farm and spa resort Stories of struggle evolve into an emphasis on restoration and renewal, including farmland that nourishes minds and bodies. In Franklin, Southall Farm & Inn ranks high for Southern spas while also growing every fruit and vegetable served on-site. This non-profit, eco-chic resort features two restaurants, one nominated for a Michelin star, plus 16 cottages, and 62 rooms and suites. Guests, including many celebrities, find balance among the natural Tennessee beauty while fly fishing, learning about falconry, or taking a dip into the heated, outdoor mineral pool.
