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Franciacorta is home to some of Italy’s best-kept secrets (Picture: Alexander O’Loughlin) An autumn escape to Italy’s answer to Champagne rewired my brain. It was everything my rotted cerebrum needed as seasonal depression began to creep in, and a cheeky cig felt more sad-girl than hot-girl. I’ve long been an advocate for an end-of-summer trip for that very reason, but in recent years, I’ve pulled an Icarus and neglected the shoulder season. But I’m going on record to say that chasing the sun is holding us all back, and my recent trip to Italy’s best-kept secret proved why. In the first week of October, I slipped away to Franciacorta, which is a delicious word to say in Italian, by the way — please do try that now. It’s where so many of Italy’s best-kept secrets quietly coexist: Moretti’s dynasty of world-class sparkling wine, Lake Como’s effortlessly chic (and refreshingly discreet) sibling, and a variation on a margherita pizza that’s earned its own Netflix Chef’s Table episode. @travelwithmetro Is Franciacorta Italy’s answer to Champagne? In Episode 2 of Metro’s City Confidential, we pop the cork on Italy’s sparkling secret and the region everyone needs to know about. Starring, shot and edited by Alexander O’Loughlin #Italy #Franciacorta #Bellavista #ItalianWine #Winetok #CityConfidential ♬ original sound – Metro Travel – Metro Travel Less than an hour’s drive from Milan Linate Airport, it sits in a region of rolling hills that extends from the southern end of Lake Iseo, following the flow of the river Oglio, across Brescia and Bergamo. Most importantly, Franciacorta is celebrated for its exceptional sparkling wines, produced from grapes grown in the foothills of the Rhaetian Alps, within Lombardy’s naturally mountainous terrain. Often described as Italy’s answer to Champagne, Franciacorta offers comparable quality at a more approachable price. As Wine Educator Nina Cerullo explains: ‘The main difference is the price. Because Franciacorta doesn’t yet have the recognition that Champagne has, those of us in the know are enjoying the quality-for-price ratio before it becomes better known.’ When I first arrived at the ivy-laced L’Albereta villa set in the Alpine basin between the Po Valley and the southern shore of Lake Iseo, I was struck by the raw beauty of the place. Founded by 83-year-old Vittorio Moretti in 1993, L’Albereta is Franciacorta’s heartbeat, a place where Italy’s (and indeed the world’s) chicest beings come to escape. Often described as Italy’s answer to Champagne, Franciacorta offers comparable quality at a more approachable price (Picture: Alexander O’Loughlin) The Moretti family has been instrumental in shaping Franciacorta’s identity. Vittorio, a visionary entrepreneur and wine lover, saw the potential in this place and committed himself to quality and authenticity. Today, his children have vineyards spanning some 200 hectares. After dropping my tote bag in my room (more on how a tote is the only way to pack for a weekend away next time), I quickly explored the hotel, which, in the best way, was like a maze. Corridors with orange hues and golden walls, hidden balconies framed by greenery, and then there’s the terrace at Leone Felice – where I’m told Vittorio has his lunch most days. There was a gentle fog across the mountains and lake, a chill in the air which filled my lungs with alpine air, and the sun was glistening through the trees. @travelwithmetro We’ve all been sleeping on Lake Iseo #Italy #LakeIseo #Franciacorta #Como ♬ Von dutch – Charli xcx I, of course, ordered an espresso in Italian fashion and sat down to enjoy the moment. And that’s when it all clicked; I had stopped moving and stopped thinking for the first time in a while. I felt free. The magic of this property, this location, had taken over me and given me the warm hug I would usually chase with a sunny holiday. After this, everything felt like a charm offensive. I headed down to the Chenot Espace Spa, a 2,000 sqm facility that comprises a medical department for consultations and diagnostic tests, private cabins for treatments, a floor dedicated to hydro-treatments, indoor and outdoor pools, a sauna, a steam bath and a fitness centre (*draws breath). I received a detox massage with cupping therapy (first time doing so), which was surprisingly relaxing, even if the cups were suctioning my skin in a rather ticklish way, and went for a swim in the indoor pool, where a piece of vine had broken in through a window and dangled over the water. L’Albereta provides every imaginable luxury (Picture: Alexander O’Loughlin) But enough about detox: on to the wine and the food. I don’t know how else to put it, but being in a vineyard in autumn was so… sexy. Firstly, because I was able to rock some performatively Italian outfits, but mostly because it felt quieter and somehow more real. It also meant I was focusing on the wine tour in a way I wouldn’t usually; something about the sun makes quaffing vino more urgent, but this time, I actually appreciated it. At Bellavista, I was intoxicated, not by the bubbles, but by the history. As my tour guide told me: ‘Instead of documents, we have bottles.’ The villa is home to vast quantities of world-class wine (Picture: Alexander O’Loughlin) Founded (again) by Vittorio Moretti in the late 1970s (he was a busy man), Bellavista marked the moment Franciacorta turned from humble table wine to Italy’s sparkling hotspot. Inspired by Champagne but driven by Italian character, Moretti pioneered the tradition of Metodo Classico here, transforming the region into a fizz-fuelled revolution that now produces over 20 million bottles a year. Moretti didn’t stop there. He went on to build a dynasty – founding Contadi Castaldi in 1987, revitalising Franciacorta’s wineries, and weaving an empire that his family continues to run today. In short, he became the Don of Italian sparkling wine, and Franciacorta will forever be his lasting legacy. Dinner at La Filiale, Franco Pepe’s restaurant, known for its iconic pizza d’auteur approach with his upside-down pizza, which featured in an episode of Netflix’s Chef’s Table: Pizza and is the gold medal winner for the fourth consecutive year of the international prize ‘The Best Pizza Awards’, was a revelation, proof that the beauty of pizza truly is better in Italy. Travel beyond the headlines Hello! I’m Kristina Beanland, Metro’s lifestyle editor. If you love reading about affordable city breaks, lesser-known destinations and how travel changes us for the better, you’re in the right place. Kristina is particularly interested in travel and women’s issues. Our weekly newsletter brings you everything from holiday inspiration to the latest travel news and hot takes. Sign up now. Netflix-famous (Picture: Alexander O’Loughlin) Then finally there’s Lake Iseo, Como’s chicer, sexier cousin. Framed by quilted vineyards and sleepy fishing villages, this place is a corker. One boat ride around Monte Isola, the largest lake island in Europe, and you’ll understand why locals don’t want you to know about it. It’s serenity with a pulse, and it’s breathtaking. Fun fact: My boat tour guide told me that George Clooney tried to buy the famous Isola di Loreto island with its neo-Gothic castle on Lake Iseo before he settled on his villa in Como because he was outbid by a local family. In Franciacorta, the good life isn’t performed; it’s lived, slowly, lovingly, and always with another bottle waiting to be opened. The wondrous guest relations manager at L’Albereta, Roberta, insists spring is also a stunning time to visit. There’s a humility here that’s rare in Italy’s more famous destinations. Locals linger over aperitivo, vintners remember your name, and time itself seems to take a gentle pause. Instead of chasing the sun, chase the moment. You won’t be disappointed. Alexander O’Loughlin was a guest of L’Albereta, Franciacorta. Double rooms from €360 per night (B&B).
