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Driving through Kalihi-Palama offers a glimpse into Hawaii’s past. One of Oahu’s oldest neighborhoods, it grew around its prime location near Honolulu Harbor and Downtown. It’s still a diverse community where homes, apartments, shops and family-owned restaurants sit side-by-side. While many of the eateries from the old days have since closed, a handful of mom-and-pop gems remain, kept alive by the next generation’s dedication and the loyalty of longtime customers. Palace Saimin When you step through the screen door of Palace Saimin (1256 N. King St.), you step back into Hawaii’s past. “People just love coming here, and they’re always surprised that it’s still around,” says owner Susan Nakagawa. Susan and her husband, Scott, continue the legacy begun in 1946 by founder Kame Ige, and carried on by Susan’s mother, Setsuko Arakaki, who bought the saimin shop in 1980 after starting there as a waitress. The Nakagawas took over in 2010, though Arakaki, who’s now 87, kept helping until she retired four years ago. “She’s so happy and proud that we’re doing a great job,” says Susan, who admits there was a steep learning curve. Palace Saimin first opened near the corner of Beretania and Keeaumoku streets, and was named after the old Palace Theater. In 1950, it moved to the Kalihi-Palama area. Customers come for the nostalgia and a comforting bowl of won ton min and barbecue sticks. “It’s just whatever they had back then, it’s here today,” says Scott. “That is what makes this place special.” Next year marks Palace Saimin’s 80th anniversary. “We’re just very grateful for all of their support, and just coming back all the time, just being there for us,” says Susan. Young’s Fish Market & Restaurant Located in City Square Shopping Center, Young’s Fish Market & Restaurant (1286 Kalani St.) continues a family legacy of making Hawaiian food. Andrea Young says the hard work is worth it to honor the tradition started by her grandparents, continued by her auntie and uncle, and upheld by her and her brother, Daniel Young. Next year, Young’s Fish Market will celebrate its 75th anniversary. Wilfred and Charlotte Young opened the original Liliha Street location in 1951 selling fresh fish. When fishing slowed, a customer suggested adding Hawaiian food, and even taught them how to make laulau. The business moved to its current Kalihi-Palama location in 2000. Everything is still made in-house. Laulau, beef stew and kalua pig are the bestsellers. Young’s especially grateful for her team, many of whom have worked there for decades. “We can only stay open as long as we have people that are willing to do the work,” says Young. “It’s not easy to stand and wrap laulau for four to six hours a day.” Despite challenges from the COVID-19 pandemic and ongoing rail construction, generations of customers help keep Young’s Fish Market & Restaurant afloat. “Thank you. We wouldn’t be here without them,” says Young. Marisa Yamane is an award-winning journalist and communications strategist with a lifelong passion for food. A proud graduate of Iolani School and UCLA, Marisa has cultivated a global palate, having visited more than 50 countries across all seven continents. Join Marisa as she explores our local communities every first and third Wednesday of the month in Crave. Follow her on Instagram (@_marisayamane).
