By Contributor,Joan Miro,Joanne Shurvell

Copyright forbes

Abadía Retuerta, Valladolid, Spain
Abadía Retuerta

Deep in Spanish wine country, nestled among the vines, is a little piece of paradise – a gorgeous, luxury spa hotel in a 12th-century monastery. Today, Abadia de Retuerta (Santa María de Retuerta Abbey) is a designated Bien de Interés Cultural (Site of Cultural Interest) that was transformed into a 30-room luxury hotel in 2012. Now, part of The Leading Hotels of the World collection, the property sits on a 700-hectare wine estate near the tranquil Duoro River Valley, about two hours north of Madrid.

A Former Monastery

Interiors at Abadía Retuerta
Abadía Retuerta

The site of today’s idyllic retreat was originally the Abbey of Santa María de Retuerta, founded in 1146 after the land was gifted by the daughter of a Count. It was a monastery until the 19th-century, with vineyards, vegetable and fruit gardens tended to by the monks. In the 1830s the Spanish government expropriated and privatized all monastic properties to raise war funds. Since then, the Abbey has gone through various private hands, including a grain company who pulled out all the vines in the 1940s. By the late 20th century, the abbey was pretty much a ruin and rather surprisingly, the Swiss pharmaceutical group Novartis bought the property in 1988. Led by Italian architect Marco Serra, the abbey and grounds were transformed into a luxury hotel, winery and spa that opened in 2012.

Accommodation

Double Superior room at Abadía Retuerta
Abadia Retuerta

You’ll feel like you’re walking in the footsteps of the monks when you wander the vast hallways and rooms with vaulted ceilings, solid stone walls and enter the lovely, peaceful (except for the birds) cloister in the center of the building. This is where breakfast is served during warmer months.

Terrace suite, Abadía Retuerta, Spain
Abadía Retuerta

The guestrooms are anything but medieval with contemporary art, furniture and chic bathrooms. The 27 rooms and three suites have been carefully restored, each with lovely views of the property’s vineyards. From classic doubles to two bedroom suites, all the rooms feature a muted color palette with oak floorboards, bespoke walnut furniture and stone bathroom floors.

Eat and Drink

Vinoteca restaurant at Abadia Retuerta
Abadia Retuerta

There are numerous places to eat and drink within the hotel, ensuring that you never have to leave the property. With guests in only 30 bedrooms to cater for, each dining spot is intimate and certainly doesn’t have the feel of a big resort with multiple restaurants. Refectorio, a restaurant awarded one Michelin Star and a Michelin Green Star, is the jewel in the crown, enjoyed by hotel guests and outside visitors. The setting, with its high vaulted ceilings and original fresco “La Sagrada Cena” [The Holy Supper] dating to 1670, is impressive but there’s nothing monk-like in the cuisine. Regularly changing tasting menus led by Chef Marc Segarra, feature local, seasonal ingredients, particularly those from the estate’s own organic gardens and vineyards. For a more casual experience, Vinoteca restaurant will not disappoint. The suckling lamb and duck magret rice are standout dishes. In warmer months, the Vinoteca menu is also served in the lovely cloister courtyard. For a pre or post dinner cocktail, the bar is in the oldest part of the hotel and has loads of character, as well as comfortable sofas.

Art in the Abbey

Works by Joan Miro are throughout the guestrooms at Retuerta
DIEGO_MARTINEZ

The permanent art collection at Abadía Retuerta is impressive, ranging from Renaissance and Baroque to Modern and Contemporary pieces. The art, from artists including Joan Miró, Eduardo Chillida Palma the Younger, Guardi, and Pannini, is spread throughout the property in guest rooms, corridors, lounges and dining areas. In addition to its permanent collection, Abadía Retuerta hosts temporary exhibitions and has a sculpture garden just outside the main building. Currently on show is a striking collection of stone sculptures by German artist Ulrich Rückriem that blend perfectly with the landscape.

Abadía Retuerta winery, Valladolid, Spain
Abadía Retuerta

A tour of the vineyards and cellars, wine tastings and the shop is an essential experience if you’re staying at the hotel. With a history of 700 years of winemaking, it’s no surprise that the winery at Abadia Retuerta produces superb wines and since early 2022, Abadía Retuerta has had its own Protected Designation of Origin (appellation ). This seal of approval, granted by the European Union, endorses the estate’s wine as a product of guaranteed origin, quality and tradition. The winery produces eight main wines, all red except for one white, a glorious “mistake.” The reds are fruity rather than oaky and the white is deliciously fresh and light.

Spa And Wellness

The outdoor Swimming pool at Abadia Retuerta, Spain
Joanne Shurvell

The 10,000 square foot ultra-luxurious spa, located in the old stables area is sheer bliss. Even though it’s underground, there are various entrances that guarantee 80% natural light. There’s a sauna, steam bath, jacuzzi, experience showers and a relaxation area with views of the interior garden. Outdoors, there’s an outdoor pool, surrounded by lavender and vines. Treatments including facials and deep tissue massages using products from Natura Bissé, start with a wine tasting, after which a treatment is chosen. Wellness sessions including yoga and sound baths are also available in a studio in the main part of the hotel.

What to do Nearby

Statue of Miguel de Cervantes in the city center of Valladolid, Spain

If you need a culture fix and can bear to drag yourself away from the retreat, Valladolid, which was the capital of Spain in the 17th-century, is about a 30 minute drive away and well worth a visit. A walking tour of the historic center is essential as you’ll learn about the unfinished but impressive Cathedral of Valladolid, numerous palaces and royal residences plus sites linked to the explorer Christopher Columbus and writer Miguel de Cervantes and the latter’s possible meeting with William Shakespeare. The tapas are equally impressive, not suprising as Valladolid hosts the annual National Pinchos and Tapas Competition (Concurso Nacional de Pinchos y Tapas), attracting top chefs from across the country. Try the Croquetas, Lechazo (roast suckling lamb) and sepia (cuttlefish) at Los Zagales (Calle Pasión, 13) and La Sepia (C/Jesús 1).

Practicalities

Reception, Abadia Retuerta LeDomaine, Spain
Abadia Retuerta

Abadía Retuerta, Sardón de Duero, 47340 Valladolid Tel +34 983687600 Rooms start from €575 per night, including breakfast.

British Airways and Iberia have multiple daily flights from London Airports to Madrid from which the hotel is about a two hour drive.

Editorial StandardsReprints & Permissions