By Contributor,Joe Flamm,Tom Hyland

Copyright forbes

Carciofo alla Guidai, Il Carciofo, Chicago
Photo courtesy Il Carciofo

Anyone who has traveled to Italy realizes that the term “Italian food” is meaningless. Rather, describing the food culture in the country refers to particular regions, cities or villages. So there is Tuscan cuisine, Piemontese cuisine, Campanian cuisine and other such examples that food lovers around the world refer to in glowing terms.

One of the most specific of these is the cuisine of Rome, one that is famous for artichokes, pastas such as cacio e pepe and pasta carbonara, and of course, pizza (a specialized style of thin pizza). Numerous versions of Roman cuisine have opened in the United States over the years, and while many are not as wildly popular as the simple “Italian restaurants” you see almost everywhere, the best recall the unique qualities of this distinctive, yet somewhat humble cuisine.

Joe Flamm, chef/partner, Il Carciofo, Chicago
Kelly Sandos

In Chicago, Il Carciofo, which opened in December 2024, is an excellent representation of what Roman dining is all about, albeit with a more upscale setting than most trattorie in the city. Meaning “the artichoke,” an iconic symbol of Roman cuisine, Il Carciofo has been carefully and lovingly created by Joe Flamm, who is the executive chef as well as partner; he also holds the same titles at two other restaurants in the Fulton Market district, one of the true hot spots for dining in Chicago’s West Loop.

Abbacchio alla Scottadito, Il Carciofo, Chicago
Photo by Kelly Sandos

MORE FOR YOU

The antipasti selection – ten in all – signals the attention that is typical for the restaurant. Coppa e Fica, marinated figs with parmgiano reggiano, is memorable for its freshness – a common theme throughout the menu – as well as its combination of sweet fruit balanced by the saltiness of the cheese; for me, this is a perfect starter.

A more hearty antipasti is the Abbacchio alla Scottadino, lamb ribs with rosemary and vin santo, a luscious dessert wine. Again, the contrast of flavors here is remarkable; perfectly cooked, the meatiness and tenderness of the lamb was impressive.

You would expect the artichoke here to be something special, and you will not be disappointed. Carciofo alla Guidia is a fried artichoke served with pecorino romano cheese; it is beautifully presented, has a crispy texture and is almost as light as air. I am not normally a fan of artichokes, but this presentation might just change my mind.

There are five different pizzas and seven different pastas available. I opted for pasta, one of which Cacio e Pepe, a staple in Rome, was prepared nicely, but it lacked the usual peppery spice one associates with this dish. I am not a fan of overly spicy foods, but in this case, while I liked it, I thought this was a bit straightforward and lacked complexity. Much better is the Agnolotti, with goat cheese, caponata and pine nuts; this was a pasta of impressive complexity – my dining companion and I loved this!

For seafood lovers, try the Pesce Orata (sea bream), served with marinated artichokes. Rich, without being heavy, the fish is crispy, and the artichokes add a nice earthy touch to this dish. Veal, beef, and chicken entrées are also available; the Manzo Aprugineo, a dry aged bone-in ribeye with honey, black pepper and beef fat, is certain to become an iconic dish at Il Carciofo.

For dessert, the Maritozzi, a brioche-style bun filled with whipped cream and dusted with powedered sugar, is a Roman classic that is extremely well done here. I also tried a peach sorbetto (a flavor not offered enough for sorbetto, in my opinion) and ate as much as I could; it had a creaminess and delicate sweetness I loved. I am not a big eater, and sometimes when I see a dessert served before me, I wonder if it is meant for two people; this sorbetto was large enough, I thought three people might not be able to finish it!

The wine program at Il Carciofo is exceptional; I say that as the wine list is not the largest, but it is as well-thought out as any I’ve seen. There are several wines from Lazio, the region where Rome is located, as befits the restaurant’s theme; these include an elegant Grechetto (an unoaked dry white) from Sergio Mottura, as well as the more full-bodied Tenuta di Fiorano “Fioranello,” one of Lazio’s most complex and historic white wines; this is rich enough to stand up to anything on the menu; at $17 a glass ($68 per bottle), this is very fairly priced; you don’t often see this wine at many restaurants in America. There are also wines from other Italian regions such as Piedmont, Umbria and Friuli. I selected a sparkling Lambrusco Rosé from Cleto Chiarli in Emilia Romagna, which is delcious and a true crowd pleaser.

These wine selections are printed on the back of the menu; there is also a more complete wine list that you have to ask for; it’s printed in a handsome booklet. Wine director Kyle Davidson has done his homework and has selected a group of excellent Italian wines that may not be that well known, but are excellent examples of their type; these include Schiava, a medium-boded indigenous red from Alois Lageder in Alto Adige, and Ograde, a soulful orange wine from Skerk in Fruli. I love it when restaurants feature wines that are not famous; these wines are discoveries and open up a whole new world to diners. Even better is that all the wines are fairly priced, something that you cannot say about too many restaurants these days. Admittedly, I am always looking for wines that are a bit of the beaten path, so combining these selections with reasonable prices is a win-win situation for diners. As a result, I can wholeheartedly state that the wine list at Il Carciofo is one of the most inspired in Chicago, and definitely one of the best. Kudos to Davidson for his contribution.

Finally some words about the service. Our server the night I dined at Il Carciofo was a young woman named Jaclyn, who was first-rate. She explained every dish on the menu – important as many diners will not be familiar with several of the choices – and did so in a relaxed, professional manner; she took her time and did not rush though her delivery; she also pronounced every Italian word perfectly – you don’t experience that too often.

She would return to our table a few times to see how we were doing; that’s standard behavior for a server at any restaurant, but her positive attitude and the comfortable attitude she showed was highly professional. How great to experience excellent cuisine with thoughtful service!

The room was full that evening, so clearly the word has spread about Il Carciolfo. Myself, I’m glad I was able to dine there and help spread the word.

1045 W. Fulton Street, Chicago

Editorial StandardsReprints & Permissions