Copyright metro
We put the AI-powered bespoke facial to the test (Picture: Supplied) When I was invited to try the world’s first artificial intelligence-powered facial, I pictured myself lying on a bed and having robot hands massaging ointment into my skin, as a VR headset upped the relaxation stakes by relocating me to a beach. The reality was a little less Black Mirror, but it still holds the power to be revolutionary. The increasing presence of AI is having an undeniable impact on the way the world works, from the TV shows we watch to how we find places to live and even the way we receive therapy. With so much change, it’s unsurprising that the beauty industry is involved too. There are customer-facing activations, such as shade finders (operated by uploading a photo), that alleviate some of the pain of finding the perfect foundation while online shopping, while behind the scenes, their influence is also present. It can be used to help at every stage, from ingredient research to product development, marketing, social media content creation, and sales strategies. The latest breakthrough comes from Danish skincare brand Apeer Beauty, who claim to be providing the first of its kind with the new beauty offering; the aforementioned facial. ‘Expert dermatologists Dr Emil Henningsen and Victoria Burles Piihl are using their over 50 years of combined clinical experience to redefine skincare with its results-driven formulas and cutting-edge, dermatologist-backed actives and now, they’re taking personalisation to a whole new level,’ I was promised. This is how I end up at Nurse Nicola Aesthetics in Parsons Green (the only clinic in London offering the service) on a Monday evening. As I take a seat in the neutral space and sip on herbal tea, she quickly explains how it’s all going to work. The ‘state-of-the-art AI skin analysis’ offers lightning-fast, non-invasive answers as to exactly what my skin needs, after being trained on millions of data points. In reality, what this means is that while sitting on a sofa, I’m told to upload a selfie onto their website, and within a few seconds, I get mildly trolled. When the deep dive into my face is done, I’m immediately told that my perceived age is 35. This is four years older than my actual age. There’s no gentle communication of the information; instead, 35 is bold and black at the top of my phone screen. Anyone can make use of this service anywhere (you don’t need to be in a clinic to do the analysis, but you do if you want a targeted facial based on the results), but I’m not sure I would have enjoyed doing it solo, as this is when the comfort that only a fellow human can provide is needed. Nicola assures me that it could be the room’s lighting and that I shouldn’t worry too much. If I were alone, I could have spiralled. It was a sobering experience (Picture: Supplied) The analysis highlighted a problem area (Picture: Supplied) The technology also reveals precise insights into my skin across five key areas, and I get varying results. While my acne is 100/100 (the best score available, and as I had extreme acne in my teens, this felt like a big win), and ageing lines are a respectable 90/100; but it’s all downhill from there. Pores are 54/100, redness is scored 41/100, and hydration is a measly 11/100. With the AI bit now covered, the ‘powered facial’ segment comes from Nicola using the information provided to tell her how to tailor a facial to my exact needs, using Apeer products, of course. As AI’s reign ends, and Nicola steps up, I’m a little disappointed as it feels less innovative than the title of my treatment suggested. However, as I relax into the bed, I can’t be frustrated for long. She begins with a deep cleanse using steam, followed by a peeling mask to remove dead skin and grime. For the grand finale, it’s a little bit of nano-needling, pushing hyaluronic acid, peptides, vitamin C, provitamin B5, and lactic acid deep into my skin. It’s designed to improve hydration (11/100, remember?) and refine my uneven texture. Nicola had to step up to perform the facial using the AI guidance (Picture: Supplied) After the treatment ends, I admire my reflection. It is undeniably glowy, and the next day, my makeup sits perfectly on my skin. Usually, my dry skin makes it peel off before I’ve even picked up my Pret tuna baguette lunch. But I do wonder if a facialist could have figured out my issues by simply looking at my face? Probably is the answer, but what the AI-powered technology does have going for it is that it’s less likely to make misjudgements, and as the amount of data increases, it’s only going to get better at the job. I was happy with the results (Picture: Supplied) As a journalist, I’m often asked if I’m worried that AI is coming for my job, and I wonder if Nicola ever has those fears. ‘No,’ she tells me in no uncertain terms, adding that the ‘human touch’ is still very much needed. She provides an example of people who upload pictures into ChatGPT to ask if they need a ‘glow-up’. It can come back with harsh feedback and encourage solutions to ‘problem areas’ that a person had never even considered an issue before. It also has a beauty standard it ascribes to, which is dangerous as there’s no joy in us all thinking there’s only one way to be attractive. Also, Nicola notes that the AI skin scanner still needs her. ‘While it’s a fantastic support, it doesn’t replace the expertise of a trained specialist,’ she stresses. ‘It enhances so I can get the best results.’ Embracing the steps forward AI can give us feels exciting, but humans in the beauty industry are a long way from being replaced. The AI-powered Apeer facial treatment with Nurse Nicola Aesthetics costs £200. The AI-Analysis is available to everyone for free here. Do you have a story you’d like to share? Get in touch by emailing Josie.Copson@metro.co.uk Share your views in the comments below.
