By Gaby Soutar

Copyright scotsman

We’re gazing out of our window. Although we’re only three levels up from the Royal Mile, the back of the building drops down, and it’s like being in the upper circle of the theatre. There’s a snaking path, down Warriston’s Close, where tourists are taking their obligatory holiday snaps, before the notoriously steep steps meet Cockburn Street, then Waverley Bridge, and onto Princes Street. Beyond, you can see across the water to Fife. I’ve never seen my city from this perspective, but this is my first time staying at five-star hotel Old Town Chambers, which is part of the Marriott’s Autograph Collection. It has a prime position, just opposite St Giles Cathedral. The hotel has 82 apartments and is something of a warren, as the property, which include a 15th-century townhouse, is spread across a complex of various A-listed historic buildings that straddle three medieval closes. We’re next door to City Chambers, so Mary King’s Close must be down somewhere underneath the pavement. The Heart of Midlothian mosaic is near enough to spit on. However, we’d never do anything quite so uncouth, while we’re in one of the gorgeous Loft rooms on the top floor. I’m well impressed by this huge space. We have a large and comfortable bedroom downstairs, which incorporates a sofa, telly, and bathroom with a large walk–in shower and Arran Aromatics’ After the Rain products. There’s a narrow set of stairs to take us upstairs to the mezzanine, with dormer windows, another seating area, a second bathroom with shower, a spare telly, and a fitted kitchen, including a Nespresso machine, washing machine, microwave, dishwasher, and anything you could need if you were staying in Auld Reekie for a week or more. The decor is white and bright, except for the colourful velvety sofas. You could quite easily hunker down in your room, and not come out, though there are other offerings to explore at this property, beyond the lovely reception area, with its huge oil painting of the cobbled street outside, or the small dusky blue library with a display of whiskies. We get lost finding their new 24-hour gym. In the end, we have to be shown where it is, by a lovely doorman, who looks quintessentially Scottish, with his ginger beard, but hails from New Jersey, in the US. It’s down another close, and in a standalone space that’s opened with our keycard. They’ve just recently kitted it out, and I instantly regret not packing my workout gear. It’s huge, with loads of free weights, punch-bags, bikes, SkiErg and other machinery, plus gratis protein bars and fruit. There’s not another soul there, on our visit. Maybe they got lost, too, or perhaps they’re too busy doing something relaxing. That might include a visit to the hotel’s two-year-old restaurant, Luckenbooths, which is named after tenements that were once located nearby. They serve breakfast here, with some standard offerings, like porridge or a full Scottish brekkie, but also some unusual dishes like the nduja and chorizo hash bowl. The menu has occasional Ottolenghi-ish vibes. For dinner, I had my first try of watermelon with gazpacho, plus crumbled feta. Not bad, though we preferred the starter of gravadlax with pickled fennel. When it came to mains, almost everyone else in the casual restaurant was having fish and chips, so it seemed rude not to follow their lead. As for dessert, we were sweet enough already, after having pre-prandial drinks at a nearby bar, The Devil’s Advocate. It’s been a while since I visited this cocktail institution. It was so busy that they gave us a seat on the outside balcony, which has heaters and parasols, and there was an appetite-piquing smell of garlic butter wafting down Advocate’s Close. I thought I’d start the weekend with a Clean Slate, which was gorgeously fresh, with a mixture of Tanqueray, St-Germain, citrus and sugar. He went for the sour and perfectly autumnal Pearfection, which contained Michter’s Bourbon, crème de poire, ginger, thyme, lemon and whiskey barrel-aged bitters. They’re still at the top of their game. I won’t leave it so long until my next visit. The next day, check out wasn’t until noon. So, we were morning tourists in our own city. At the stroke of 12, we’d be residents again. We could have gone to Edinburgh Castle, or Holyrood Palace, Gladstone’s Land, John Knox’s House, the Museum of Childhood or Mary King’s Close. It’s all on the doorstep. However, after grabbing a coffee from Santu on the Royal Mile and drinking it in Dunbar’s Close Gardens, we took advantage of the free admission at the Museum of Edinburgh on the Canongate. I haven’t been here since I was a kid, and it’s so packed full of treasures, from John Knox’s spectacles case, to a sedan chair. I could have done with one of those, to lift me back up the Royal Mile in time for check out. After all, after one night at this hotel, I’m getting quite used to the giddy height of luxury. Rooms start at £330 per night, call 0131-510 5499, or see www.marriott.com Read more: “I stayed the weekend at this new St Andrews hotel and it’s beyond fabulous” Read more: “I stayed at a charming Northumberland cottage with a spectacular castle as a neighbour” Read more: “I tried the buzzy new Edinburgh luxury hotel restaurant that’s got everyone talking” Read more: “I introduced my mum to the restaurant at Scotland’s best hotel and she’s loved it ever since”