By Christopher Sharp
Copyright dailypost
James Martin is a well known name in the UK, gracing our screens every Saturday with his cooking show – but just how tasty are his dishes?
To find out, I decided to have lunch at James’ restaurant – Grill at the Lygon Arms – nestled in the idyllic Cotswolds village of Broadway. Like Jeremy Clarkson’s pub, the restaurant is reasonably close to Wales. The border town of Monmouth, for example, sits 50 miles (just over an hour) away.
Upon arrival in Broadway, the rain had subsided, car parks were bustling, and the streets were teeming with pedestrians.
There was a palpable buzz in the air, with one café owner seemingly overwhelmed by the influx of business in this charming Cotswolds spot, reports the Express.
Inside the restaurant
The Lygon Arms is conveniently located on the main high street, surrounded by a variety of delis and quirky shops; guests leisurely drifted in and out of the venue, some to stay, others to dine, and a few, I suspect, to do both.
To reach the restaurant, you enter the hotel, take a right turn, proceed down a lengthy corridor and are welcomed into a grand, arch-ceilinged room. The deecor features what could almost be described as Bluebird blue walls, complemented by light wooden seating and green leather upholstery.
I must admit, my initial impression can be succinctly summarised in three words – nice but intimidating.
Upon arrival, I was met with chandeliers that seemed to be crafted from antlers and moulded into tree shapes; their light hue contrasting with a slight Slytherin-esque vibe. It’s an unsettling design choice, but one you can’t help but appreciate by the end of your meal.
If you’re curious as to why it felt daunting, I suppose the best way to explain it is that unfamiliar places and situations always have a certain degree of unease.
There was a time when I wasn’t a journalist and worked in various hospitality roles of differing satisfactions, and sometimes it still feels odd to arrive at a posh place and be the one being served rather than serving.
Now, onto the main reason for the visit – the food. I opted for a two-course meal with sparkling water (I was driving) and no wine, and decided to start with something I wouldn’t usually include in my weekly shop: crab.
Specifically, the Cornish Dressed crab with apple, celeriac and lemon, accompanied by toasted rye bread.
What was served was mostly what was promised – the bread was not toasted, but the crab was exactly as described and absolutely delicious.
Crab isn’t something I typically eat, so the experience felt quite special as a result, with the softness of the shellfish blending beautifully with the celeriac and lemon.
It was light on the palate, and I could sense my body delighting in the experience of tasting such a dish. The bread tended to overpower the flavour of the crab when combined, but I suspect if it had been toasted, this wouldn’t have been the case.
For my main course, I decided to go for something more substantial – the Blythburgh Farm Pork Chop, which came with cider Bramley apple compote, crisp sage, all-butter mash, and roasting juices. To accompany this, I chose the grilled Hispi cabbage with ranch dressing.
Hispi cabbage is a type of white cabbage known for its pale leaves and sweet flavour. It was this cabbage that transformed the pork chop into something special.
Pork chops can often be quite bland, but when paired with the greens, cabbage, and accompanying juices, it was elevated to a new level, adding a tangy zing to a dish that could have otherwise been forgettable.
After this, and with many miles still to travel, I decided against dessert and instead opted for a double espresso before settling the bill and stepping out into the Friday afternoon sunshine.
For two dishes, a side, some sparkling water, and a double espresso, the total came to a sizeable £82.41. The prices were as follows:
The biggest shock was the price of the double espresso. While the food prices were acceptable, even considering the plush surroundings, £6 for a double espresso seemed excessive.
However, despite the cost, I thoroughly enjoyed my dining experience at a restaurant that feels perfectly at home in its leafy Cotswold setting, surrounded by villages that encapsulate a vision of Britain’s past and offer a glimpse into its present.
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