Copyright The Atlantic
This is an edition of The Wonder Reader, a newsletter in which our editors recommend a set of stories to spark your curiosity and fill you with delight. Sign up here to get it every Saturday morning. When did dinner stop being an occasion and become just another transaction? The convenience of delivery apps has quietly hollowed out one of America’s most beloved rituals, Ellen Cushing writes. What began as a clever fix for busy eaters has transformed how we dine: Nearly three out of every four restaurant orders are now eaten somewhere else. Dining rooms sit half empty while chefs design dishes that can survive the journey to the customer’s home, and some waiters stand behind counters instead of beside tables. “Delivery saved us during the pandemic,” one restaurateur told her. “Now they are killing us.” The rise of DoorDash, Uber Eats, and Grubhub has changed not just the economics of restaurants, but also their purpose. “A restaurant that doesn’t serve people isn’t really a restaurant—it’s something else,” Ellen writes. What was once a shared act of care—welcoming people in and serving them freshly made food—has evolved into a system designed for speed, not connection. Derek Thompson anticipated this shift in 2019, describing how meal-delivery apps came to symbolize what he calls “convenience maximalism”—the instinct to make everything faster and easier, no matter the cost. Fueled by billions in venture capital, delivery platforms reshaped what we expect from food, making instant gratification feel normal while hiding the strain it places on workers, small businesses, and communities. Today’s newsletter explores how food delivery became both a marvel of modern life and a warning about what we lose to our growing appetite for convenience. On Food Delivery The Innovation That’s Killing Restaurant Culture By Ellen Cushing Read the article. The Booming, Ethically Dubious Business of Food Delivery By Derek Thompson Read the article. I’m Risking My Life to Bring You Ramen By Darcy Courteau Read the article. Still Curious? Other Diversions PS My colleague, Isabel Fattal, recently asked readers to share a photo of something that sparks their sense of awe in the world. “It is difficult not to be in awe when the clouds are on fire as the sun sets in Del Mar, California,” Steve S. writes. We’ll continue to feature your responses in the coming weeks.
