Copyright MassLive
SPRINGFIELD — Any restaurant can give you a meal. But nowhere can give you a feast quite like the Student Prince. I dare you to find a dinner that’s more fun than a plate of fried Camembert cheese, a boot of good German beer and a delicious schnitzel the size of a vinyl record. For over 90 years, the Student Prince has been offering some of the best German food in the state. After nearly shuttering its doors 11 years ago, it’s roared back to life over the past decade and remains a cornerstone of the city. The Basketball Hall of Fame? It’s nice. The casino? Thanks for the parking lot. If you really want to see something in Springfield, take that left turn down Fort Street for a dining experience unlike anything else you’ll find in Western Mass. Classic Mass. Restaurants: The Student Prince Café and The Fort Restaurant Let’s talk about the name. Some folks call it the Student Prince. Others call it The Fort. It’s all the same business. It’s just that no one wants to say the whole name: the Student Prince Café and The Fort Restaurant. Whichever name you use, it all summons the same intangible feelings of nostalgia and history in Springfield. For decades, the Student Prince has been the epicenter of family gatherings, Christmas festivities and Mighty Oktoberfest celebrations. Bean Restaurant Group, which has run the Student Prince since 2014, takes the responsibility of continuing that legacy seriously. “We’re seeing generations of family that are coming through. We’re seeing the grandfather that came here with his grandfather,” Nathan Yee, director of hospitality for Bean Restaurant Group. “That is the linchpin that holds successful restaurants together, being extremely community-focused and really caring about your guests.” What’s good on the menu? Don’t overthink it. Get the German classics. Fortunately, the Student Prince makes it easy to try a bit of everything. A great starting point is the German Sampler, which comes with a smoked pork chop, bratwurst, goulash, red cabbage and pan-fried potatoes. The sausage is a savory bloom of enticing flavors. The goulash is an endlessly tender gravy train of umami. The pork chop? It’s a perfectly seared slab right out of “The Flintstones.” I expected those to impress. I did not anticipate being blown away by the brilliantly seasoned potatoes — or elements that aren’t even listed on the menu. That would be the mustard and apple sauce that comes with the sampler. The apple sauce is intoxicating. It’s liquified apple pie. The mustard is an enlightenment of sharp, bright flavors that boost everything it comes in contact with. For appetizers, there’s the Fried Camembert cheese, which is infuriatingly good. I can’t believe I’ve been wasting my time all these years eating fried mozzarella sticks. I didn’t even know this was an option. Finally, I highly recommend the “create your own schitzel” option, which lets you choose the meat and preparation. I went with the pork, jäger style (served with mushroom gravy). I could eat that whole thing without realizing I just consumed a fried piece of meat the size of a Toyota Corolla steering wheel. Celebrating 90 years of history The establishment that stands today first opened in 1935 as the Student Prince Café, which was named after a 1920s operetta by Sigmund Romberg. In 1946, the business expanded with the opening of The Fort. That name stems from the “Old Fort,” the former estate of John Pynchon, whose father, William Pynchon, founded Springfield. The rich history of the Student Prince is palpable in its construction and its atmosphere. You see it in the intricate stained-glass windows and the worn wooden beams. Then there’s the legendary collection of over 1,000 beer steins that line the walls. “We talk about it with guests all the time. You walk into a history museum,” says. “There’s 90 years of history. You can see it all over the restaurant. We have the largest stein collection in the Northeast, and it’s all on display for people to see.” The Student Prince has changed hands multiple times over the years. It started in the 30s with Paul Schoeder and later his partner, Erna Sievers. After Sievers died in 1961, ownership moved to Rupprecht Scherff and Margarethe Silinski. After Silinksi retired, the Scherff Family took over ownership. Scherff’s children, Rudi Scherff and Barbara B. Meunier, then ran the restaurant for decades. But in 2014, financial troubles forced it to close and go up for sale. At the time, there was a fear that the Student Prince would close for good. However, a group of prominent Springfield-area business leaders — including Peter Picknelly of Peter Pan Bus Lines and Andy Yee of Bean Restaurant Group — came together to save the restaurant and revitalize it for the modern era. These days, running a restaurant is hard. People are changing the way they go out to eat. Trends are always shifting. Fortunately, the Student Prince has a simple strategy to keep families in Western Mass. coming back year after year. “It’s actually pretty easy. As long as you keep that German stuff authentic and consistent, and you don’t play with that, the guests trust you,” Head Chef Timothy Saxer said. More info about the Student Prince Check them out: Website | Facebook | Instagram What’s the address? — 8 Fort Street, Springfield What’s the parking situation? — The Student Prince has limited street parking nearby. However, the restaurant does provide complimentary valet parking from Wednesday to Saturday after 5 p.m. When are they open? — Here are the listed business hours at the time of writing. Monday: 11 a.m. - 8:30 p.m. Tuesday: 11 a.m. - 8:30 p.m. Wednesday: 11 a.m. - 8:30 p.m. Thursday: 11 a.m. - 8:30 p.m. Friday: 11 a.m. - 9:30 p.m. Saturday: 11 a.m. - 9:30 p.m. Sunday: 11 a.m. - 8 p.m. --- Classic Mass. Restaurants is a series highlighting some of the Bay State’s most historic and beloved food destinations. You can check out the rest of the series here. Have a hidden gem that you think we should check out? Email nomalley@masslive.com your favorites.
