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I’ve just returned from a trip to Los Angeles, where I ran totally wild at the Sunday morning farmers’ market in Hollywood. I make it a point to check out farmers’ markets wherever I travel, because one of the best ways to get to know a place is through its local foodstuffs. California operates on a whole other level. Everything seems to thrive there. All that citrus! Persimmons, passion fruit and dates! Really good strawberries almost all year round! If I lived in California I’d plant a Meyer lemon tree and make lemon curd by the tubful. But I don’t live there, so I schlepped back a weighty suitcase of artichokes, avocados and Kishu mandarins. Now: What shall I do with them? Artichokes are a no-brainer. I’m steaming them to eat in bowls of melted salted butter seasoned with a little hot sauce. And the minute those avocados ripen, they’re going straight into Yewande Komolafe’s perfectly timed new recipe for harissa shrimp with greens and feta. Yewande brilliantly makes use of two pillars of weeknight cooking: the sheet pan and the condiment shelf. One of my favorite condiments, harissa, adds extravagant flavor to the shrimp and helps it caramelize, while the greens, either chard or kale, crisp at the edges. A topping of salty feta and creamy avocados adds texture and tang. It’s a dish that will take you places. As for dessert, the mandarins are really all I need. Though a cookie on the side never hurts. Thank you for your patience while we verify access. If you are in Reader mode please exit and log into your Times account, or subscribe for all of The Times. Thank you for your patience while we verify access. Already a subscriber? Log in. Want all of The Times? Subscribe.
