La Conner sees most of its visitors in the spring, when acres of daffodils and tulips bloom in fields nearby, or in the summer, when breezes off the Swinomish Channel cool the tourists along First Street.
However, autumn in this small, historic waterfront town, which was Skagit County’s first seat of government, is the season the locals love most. I know. I am one.
Located about 45 minutes north of Everett, La Conner is home to great restaurants, dozens of artsy shops and a few touristy ones, the Museum of Northwest Art, Skagit County Historical Museum, Pacific Northwest Quilt & Fiber Arts Museum in the restored 1890s Gaches Mansion, our new La Conner Swinomish Library, our one-campus K-12 school (Go Braves!), a channel-side boardwalk, and beautiful Pioneer Park.
Just across the iconic orange Rainbow Bridge from the park is the Swinomish Tribal Reservation, with its trio of Coast Salish “cedar hat” pavilions, built to welcome tribal Canoe Journey participants regularly from around the state and British Columbia.
Beat the summer crowds
Why is fall a good time to visit?
It’s less crowded, the harvest is still on and autumn weather is usually delightful.
Get off I-5 at Conway and head west over the Skagit River on Fir Island Road. Before you get to the North Fork bridge, find Snow Goose Produce, with its fresh produce, fish and trademark “immodest” ice cream cones. Across the river on Best Road is The Rex, which reopened this summer, serving sandwiches and gelato, and Pleasant Ridge Farm, with its outstanding crop of apples.
Just a bit past the left turn to La Conner is Christianson’s Nursery, which has become a tourist destination in itself. Browse the greenhouses, wander outside and take a big whiff of fresh air. The nursery also hosts a farmers’ market on Sundays through September.
Not to be missed is the Hedlin family farm stand on Chilberg Road at the entrance to town. The family is on its fifth generation working the land here. They are sure to have a great selection of pumpkins, dahlia bouquets, sweet corn, greenhouse tomatoes and more.
Kai Ottesen, part of the fourth generation of Hedlins, says that early fall is a charmed time in La Conner.
“We will see an incalculable bounty and diversity — an amazing confluence really — of farm products,” he said. “September is a busy time for us, but it’s very fun.”
At the farm stand or up the street at Pioneer Market, pick up a copy of the La Conner Community News, our new community-supported weekly newspaper, to find out what special activities are happening.
If you visit Oct 24 to 27, the town’s premier fine arts invitational show and festival — Art’s Alive — is centreed at the town’s Maple Hall. This celebration of the arts was begun more than 40 years ago by the late photographer Art Hupy, who also started the Museum of Northwest Art.
Traditionally a commercial centre for farming, fishing and logging, La Conner has been an artsy place since the 1950s, when people such as the late, famous “Northwest School” painter Guy Anderson moved here from his native Edmonds. The novelist Tom Robbins (“Even Cowgirls Get the Blues”) also lived here for many years, and the town named him King for a Day and hosted a parade in his honor a few years ago before his death this year.
La Conner also hosts the biannual Skagit River Poetry Festival in October, and is home to the Skagit Community (concert) Band and other musical events, most at Maple Hall.
This season at the quilt and fibre arts museum in the beautiful Victorian mansion, see works by artists Terrie Mangat, Bridget Daly and Julian Jamaal Jones.
At the history museum at the top of La Conner’s hill neighborhood, learn the history of Skagit County, its first people and its first immigrants, including Louisa Ann Conner, for whom the town is named. Be sure to take in the view out the back window of the main exhibit area, lovely on a clear day. “Everyone’s a Critic” is the current exhibition. More than 100 pieces of art by folks of all ages in all mediums from around the county. Visitors are voting for their favourites in several categories. Winners will be announced Nov. 15 and awarded prizes.
Historical museum director Jo Wolfe is pleased with the participation and looks forward to the fall season.
“La Conner is beautiful well into October, the crowds are fewer, parking is easy and we have three great museums to visit, along with great shops and restaurants,” Wolfe said. “It’s my favourite time of year.”
Our library’s exterior features a Coast Salish welcoming figure by Swinomish master carver Kevin Paul and his son-in-law, Camas Logue. Inside, the library is a gathering place for kids and another place to view local artwork.
Speaking of the Swinomish people, a pathway of interpretative signs near the big hat pavilions across the channel gives visitors a good overview of the history of the tribe. Don’t miss the chance. The tribe is an integral part of our larger community.
And on the north side of the reservation on Highway 20 is the tribe’s Swinomish Casino, with lodging and restaurants, and down the road is the Swinomish Golf Links.
If you’re not a gambler or a golfer, I recommend a brief two-mile hike a short distance from the golf course on Kikit Island, which is a state park and the Swinomish tribe’s Kukutali Heritage Preserve. You’ll need a state Discover parking pass or you can squeeze tight to the shoulder. Interpretive signs give visitors the history of the island. From the far end, one can see the Deception Pass Bridge.
Local food, local flavour
Back in town, I can’t possibly give a rundown on each of the restaurants, but I will mention some of my favourites.
The La Conner Pub & Eatery along the channel, best known as The Tav, is the local hangout. Check out the pan-fried oysters, fish and chips, shrimp Louie, and local brews. Families are welcome. For breakfast, the locals like the Retro Diner on Morris Street for down-home biscuits, benedicts and omelettes.
Nell Thorn, Oyster & Thistle, and Coa Mexican Eatery and Tequileria are the restaurants we visit when we have something special to celebrate.
Nell Thorn, also on the channel, prides itself on buying from local farmers for its Northwest cuisine. Sit by the windows in the bar if you can. Oyster & Thistle, adjacent to the La Conner Inn, features the work of chef Josh Van Hine, who grew up in La Conner and studied at the Culinary Institute of America.
Coa, named for the spade used to harvest agave plants, is a sibling-owned joint located closer to the entrance to town. It features modern takes on the food their grandma made in her Durango kitchen. The house margarita includes house-dried fruit. Ask for pineapple.
The shops and galleries in La Conner are far too many to mention individually. You can browse for fine art and crafts, clothing, kitchen wares, garden stuff, musical instruments, food, coffee, house-made soaps, imports, toys, furniture, jewellery, antiques, books, yarn, candy, ice cream, (whew!) and more. I do most of my Christmas shopping in La Conner, and I would recommend that to anyone.
There are at least six good places to stay the night in the La Conner area. You’ll have to do an internet search. I haven’t stayed at any of them, because I am lucky enough to live here.
What’s my favourite time of day in La Conner?
The golden hour just before sunset. After an early supper, take a walk along the channel boardwalk. Shoot a selfie photo with the Rainbow Bridge in the background. Breathe in the salt air.
IF YOU GO
Christianson’s Nursery: 15806 Best Road, Mount Vernon; 360-466-3821; christiansonsnursery.com
Hedlin’s Family Farm (open through October): 12502 Chilberg Road; 360-770-0377; hedlinfarms.com
Museum of Northwest Art: 121 First St.; 360-466-4446; monamuseum.org
Skagit County Historical Museum (open Thursday-Sunday): 501 S. Fourth St.; 360-466-3365; skagitcounty.net/departments/historicalsociety
Pacific Northwest Quilt & Fiber Arts Museum (open Wednesday-Saturday): 703 Second St.; 360-466-4288; qfamuseum.org
Maple Hall: 104 Commercial St.; 360-466-3125; townoflaconner.org/Maple-Hall
La Conner Swinomish Library (closed Sunday): 520 Morris St.; 360-466-3352; laconnerswinomishlibrary.org
Swinomish Casino & Lodge: 12885 Casino Drive; swinomishcasinoandlodge.com
Swinomish Golf Links: 12518 Christianson Road; swinomishcasinoandlodge.com/golf
Kiket Island: Snee-Ooosh Road, www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/kukutali-preserve; swinomish-www.swinomish-nsn.gov/natural-resources/page/kukutali-preserve
La Conner Community News: laconnercommunitynews.org
Sound & Summit
This story originally appeared in Sound & Summit magazine, The Daily Herald’s quarterly publication.
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