By Contributor,Corein Carter,Denis Charlet
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An employee inspects a perfume bottle at the L’Oreal factory in Gauchy near Saint Quentin, northern France, on December 11, 2020. The factory manufactures the perfumes of the L’Oreal brand. L’Oreal has 40 factories around the world. The one in Saint-Quentin, created in 1965, is the only one in the group to design aerosols. (Photo by DENIS CHARLET / AFP) (Photo by DENIS CHARLET/AFP via Getty Images)
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Expert Guide to Finding a Fragrance That Works With Your pH
Navigating the world of fragrance is part art, part science. From luxury houses to niche artisan brands, each perfume carries layers of complexity, designed to interact uniquely with the wearer’s skin and lifestyle. To help demystify this process, I consulted with several master perfumers, to provide an expert-led guide to choosing fragrances as individual as you are.
The Science of Fragrance and Skin
Fragrance is far more than a pleasant aroma—it is a living, evolving experience that interacts uniquely with each wearer’s body. According to David Adelon, master perfumer and founder of My Senteur By, every person’s skin chemistry, pH balance, and microbiome subtly influence how notes are perceived and how long they linger. “Even the same fragrance will smell different on two people,” he notes. “Understanding your skin’s interaction with scent allows you to select fragrances that truly become part of your personal signature.”
pH and Ingredients: Skin typically ranges from 4.5 to 5.5. Ingredients like essential oils, alcohols, and synthe;’[tics can temporarily shift this balance, affecting how notes open and evolve. Well-formulated perfumes—especially those with hydrating agents like glycerin—work in harmony with the skin, allowing top, heart, and base notes to reveal themselves gradually.
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Cultural and Genetic Influences: Melanin-rich skin holds warm notes, such as vanilla, sandalwood, and resins, longer and more intensely. Individuals with higher sweat gland activity may notice brighter, fresher notes like citrus or aquatic accords emerging more quickly. The body’s microbiome also plays a subtle yet significant role, making the same fragrance develop differently from person to person.
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Lifestyle and Longevity: Fragrance should complement your daily routine and personal aesthetic. Light florals and herbal scents are ideal for active, day-to-day wear, while deeper woods, spices, and gourmand compositions suit formal or evening occasions. Hydrating the skin enhances longevity, while alternating fragrances helps prevent olfactory fatigue, ensuring that each scent maintains its vibrancy over time.
Adelon emphasizes, “At My Senteur, we only use natural, organic, and noble ingredients, free from endocrine disruptors and synthetic preservatives. This ensures that our fragrances not only smell exquisite but also maintain perfect harmony with your skin and natural pH.”
Understanding Fragrance Concentrations
Richard Herpin, master perfumer and collaborator on House of Dastan, reflects: “Perfume is storytelling. The same composition can tell a completely different story depending on the wearer’s chemistry, environment, and even mood. Approaching fragrance selection thoughtfully transforms it from a product into an extension of personal expression.”
Before exploring individual perfumes, it’s crucial to understand fragrance strengths, which dictate longevity, sillage, and the way notes unfold on the skin:
Eau de Toilette (EDT): 5–15% aromatic compounds. Light, fresh, ideal for daywear or warmer climates.
Eau de Parfum (EDP): 15–20%. Richer, longer-lasting; perfect for evening wear or occasions where you want the scent to evolve over hours.
Extrait de Parfum: 20–40%. The most concentrated form; a small dab on pulse points offers an intense, lasting signature.
EDTs are bright and uplifting, while EDPs are nuanced and evolve over time. Testing the right concentration ensures the perfume works with your lifestyle and body chemistry.
Pro Tips for Testing Fragrances
Kevin Keller, co-founder of Fulton & Roark, adds, “Testing fragrances on your skin, rather than a paper blotter, is essential. It allows you to understand how each note evolves with your body chemistry and how the scent will perform throughout your day
Keller shares expert guidance for sampling multiple perfumes at home:
Paper First: Spray fragrances on blotters and label. Some vials are “un-primed,” so you may need multiple pumps.
Reset Between Scents: Smell a neutral surface or your arm to avoid nasal fatigue.
Test on Skin: True signature scents emerge when fragrance interacts with body chemistry.
Wear and Observe: Fragrances evolve differently on skin versus paper. Test throughout the day.
Take Your Time: Sampling over multiple days ensures you select a scent that truly resonates.
L to R: Le Labo Another 13, Christian Louboutin Lavande Fétiche, Parfums de Marly Delina
Expert Spray & Wear Strategy
Pulse Points: Wrists, side of neck, chest, behind ears
Movement Points: Back of knees, inside elbows
Hydration: Moisturized skin improves longevity
Layering: Combine EDTs + EDPs carefully to build depth
Fragrance Selection
AllSaints – Sunset Riot Intense Eau de Parfum
AllSaints – Sunset Riot Intense
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Fragrance Family: Amber Woody Floral
Notes: Top: Mandarin Leaves, Pink Pepper, Wild Freesia; Mid: Orange Flower, Night-Blooming Jasmine, Woodland Moss; Base: Cedarwood, Cetalox® Amber, Sueded Musks
Expert Tip: Ideal for day-to-night transitions; lets the floral-woody layers evolve naturally.
Belnu – Rose Steady
Belnu – Rose Steady (Cruelty-Free & Vegan)
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Notes: Top: Frankincense, Cashmere Woods, Bay Leaf; Mid: Rose, Sandalwood, Fig Leaf; Base: Patchouli Heart, Cedarwood, Musk
Expert Tip: Let it bloom on skin for nuanced floral evolution.
Bvlgari – Eau Parfumée Thé Blanc
Concentration: Eau de Toilette (EDT)
Notes: China White Tea SFE Extract, White Musk Accord
Expert Tip: Light and airy; perfect for office or warm climates.
Bvlgari – The Vert Eau de Parfum
Bvlgari – Eau Parfumée Thé Vert
Concentration: Eau de Toilette (EDT)
Notes: Green Tea SFE Extract, Neroli Petals Accord
Expert Tip: Refresh lightly; interacts subtly with skin pH.
Christian Louboutin – Lavande Fétiche
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Fragrance Family: Aromatic Floral
Notes: Top: Lavender, Bergamot; Mid: Rose, Violet, Iris; Base: Sandalwood, Musk, Cedarwood
Expert Tip: Apply to pulse points and allow the lavender top note to settle for a layered floral experience.
Encina – Le Joce Eau De Parfum
Encina – LE JOCE
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Notes: Grapefruit, Neroli, Jasmine, Amber, Musk
Expert Tip: Genderless and versatile; ideal for layering or signature scent.
Sutherland & Co – Exist
Sutherland & Co
Sutherland & Co – Exist
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Fragrance Family: Warm & Spicy
Scent Type: Rich Gourmand Woods
Notes: Turkish Coffee, French Vanilla, Caramel
Expert Tip: Apply to pulse points and let the fragrance interact with your skin for full evolution—coffee and caramel deepen beautifully on melanin-rich skin.
Etlee – The Pistacho
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Fragrance Family: Gourmand Floral
Notes: Top: Pistachio, Bergamot, Green Almond; Mid: Jasmine, Orris, Tonka Bean; Base: Sandalwood, Vanilla, White Musk
Expert Tip: Apply lightly to pulse points and allow the nutty-pistachio heart to unfold gradually. Ideal for both daytime wear and intimate evening occasions.
Fenty Eau de Parfum
Fenty Beauty
Fenty Eau De Parfum (Vegan)
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Fragrance Family: Fruity Floral Oriental
Notes: Top: Pear, Blackcurrant, Bergamot; Mid: Jasmine, Rose, Violet; Base: Sandalwood, Musk, Vanilla
Expert Tip: Layer lightly on pulse points for longevity; the fruity-floral interplay evolves beautifully over several hours.
Fridays With Tab & Chance – Her Business
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP) | VEGAN
Notes: Top: Bergamot, Orange Flower, Baie Rose; Mid: Ginger, Orris, Tea; Base: Caramel, Tonka Beans, Cocoa, Vanilla, Musk+
Expert Tip: Perfect for layering or personal expression.
Fridays With Tab & Chance – His Business
Fridays With Tab & Chance
Fridays With Tab & Chance – His Business
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP) | VEGAN
Notes: Top: Bergamot, Grapefruit, Cardamom; Mid: Tea, Benzoin; Base: Cocoa, Suede, Amber, Cedarwood, Musk
Expert Tip: Ideal for complementary layering or signature statements.
Fulton & Roark – The Window Extrait de Parfum
Fulton & Roark
Fulton & Roark – The Window
Concentration: Extrait de Parfum
Olfactive Family: Woody Amber
Notes: Top: Pink Pepper, Lavandin, Desert Air; Mid: Gravel Ghost, Desert Florals, Ylang Ylang; Base: Desert Ironwood, Saffron, Leathered Woods
Expert Tip: Pulse points amplify its woody-amber complexity.
House of Dastan – Game of Joy
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Notes: Top: Timur Pepper, Cardamom, Elemi, Pear; Mid: Incense, Violet Leaves, Passion Fruit, Mango, Watermelon, Orcanox; Base: Cashmere Wood, Musks, Cypriol, Tonka Bean, Cistus Absolu, Sandalwood, Patchouli
Expert Tip: Let fragrance interact with skin 30–60 min for full complexity; top notes evolve differently depending on body pH.
House of Dastan – You? Eau de Parfum
House of Dastan
House of Dastan – You?
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Notes: Bergamot, Pear, Cinnamon, Coriander, Seed Jasmine, Milk, Fig, White Chocolate, Freesia, Ylang Musks, Sandalwood, Tonka, Cedar
Expert Tip: Ideal for warm or cozy evenings; rich gourmand-woody profile.
Le Labo – Another 13
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Notes: Top: Ambroxan, Pear; Mid: Jasmine, Moss; Base: Musk, Woody Notes
Expert Tip: Subtle, musky-woody signature; base notes linger on melanin-rich skin.
Le Labo – Eucalyptus 20 Eau de Parfum
Le Labo – Eucalyptus 20
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Notes: Top: Eucalyptus, Bergamot, Lemon; Mid: Sage, Geranium; Base: Vetiver, Cedarwood, Musk
Expert Tip: Spray lightly for crisp, daytime freshness.
Ouai – Melrose Place
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Fragrance Family: Floral Fruity
Notes: Top: Pear, Pink Pepper, Bergamot; Mid: Jasmine, Magnolia, Rose; Base: Cashmere Wood, Vanilla, Musk
Expert Tip: Spray on pulse points and let the floral-fruity heart develop naturally. Ideal for everyday wear or casual evening outings.
Prada -Paradoxe Radical Essence Extrait de Parfum
Prada – Paradoxe Radical Essence
Concentration: Extrait de Parfum
Notes: Top: Sweet Neroli; Mid: Salted Pistachio Accord; Base: Creamy Sandalwood
Expert Tip: Ideal for evening wear; gourmand notes evolve beautifully over time.
Parfums de Marly – Delina
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Notes: Top: Rhubarb, Lychee, Bergamot Essence; Mid: Damascena Rose, Vanilla; Base: Cashmeran, Musk, Vetiver
Expert Tip: Elegant, feminine, and sophisticated.
Parfums de Marly – VALAYA
Parfums de Marly
Parfums de Marly – Valaya
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Notes: Top: Bergamot, Mandarin, White Peach; Mid: Orange Flower, Nympheal, Vetiver; Base: Akigalawood, Ambrofix, Musk
Expert Tip: Layer with lighter EDTs for a full-bodied signature.
Rare Beauty by Selena Gomez – Rare
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Notes: Top: Caramel, Pistachio, Pink Pepper; Mid: Vanilla, Ginger, Cocoa Beans; Base: Sandalwood, Tonka Beans, Skin Musks
Expert Tip: Test over 6+ hours for full evolution; perfect for special occasions.
Tom Ford – Rose Exposed Eau de Parfum
Tom Ford – Rose Exposed
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Fragrance Family: Floral Woody Musk
Notes: Top: Bergamot, Saffron; Mid: Damask Rose, Jasmine, Geranium; Base: Amber, Sandalwood, Musk
Expert Tip: Apply to pulse points and allow the floral heart to bloom; ideal for evening wear or occasions when you want a bold yet sophisticated rose signature.
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