By Benjamin Parker

Copyright independent

South Kensington is London’s cultural jewellery box, home to grand museums – the Natural History Museum, Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A), and the Science Museum – elegant garden squares, and cafes humming with conversation. Beyond the doorstep, it’s easy to reach other parts of the city from South Kensington Tube station (which is on the District and Piccadilly lines); you’ll reach Covent Garden in 12 minutes (for the city’s theatres and boutique shopping), and the financial heart of the City in under 20.

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This 19th-century townhouse is full of Victorian charm, inside and out, from bay windows and detailed cornices through to high ceilings and the spectacular wrought-iron staircase, a centrepiece illuminated by a cascading string of lights, updated with the seasons. Heritage spaces are given modern flourishes with floral prints in low-slung stools and mirror-topped tables. The Drawing Rooms – there are two – are places for afternoon tea, and have a different look: vivid colours, chairs and cushions in azure blue and bright red, with lovely marble floors.

Staff aren’t as formal as you find in other hotels of this ilk in London – perhaps they’re reflecting the hints of Victorian whimsy that appear in the decor? However, when help is needed – an ironing board sent to the room, a refill on a drink – you won’t be kept waiting long.

Distinct themes pulse through each of the 111 rooms, inspired by the disciplines of the surrounding museums: astronomy, botany, geometry, music and ornithology. These themes are realised as wallpaper on a feature wall, or in cushions on the beds. Style varies across the categories but you can expect a mix of large, plush headboards, deeply comfortable beds and (in some) Bluetooth speakers and coffee machines. The rooms facing the front have the best views, and you can’t hear the traffic below. Bathrooms are modern, with white and black tiles, and are stocked with Malin + Goetz toiletries; en-suites feature either a walk-in shower or a shower-bath combination.

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Apero is a main restaurant and bar, downstairs in the Victorian cellar. The arches, wooden floors and exposed brick lend an intimate feel, but the space is brightened by white subway tiles, long-hanging filament bulbs and a marble bar; it’s an informal spot that feels distinct from the hotel. With Mediterranean-influenced menus, you can graze on mezze boards, opt for a selection of small plates – scallops in the shell, swimming in herb butter, or burrata drizzled with pesto are winners – or go for bigger dishes, from a selection of pasta through to roasted salmon or sirloin steak.

Afternoon tea is a huge part of the Ampersand’s offering which also draws inspiration from nearby museums. The ‘Science Afternoon Tea’ is a fun, interactive approach, with mini experiments to conduct while tucking into scones with freeze-dried toppings, jellies in petri dishes and a chocolate ‘spaceman’. There’s also a ‘Jurassic Afternoon Tea’ with a nod to the Natural History Museum. It’s served in Apero, and I wouldn’t want to give too much away – but it does feature a ‘volcanic eruption’ and ‘dinosaur egg basket’.

Breakfast, taken in the Drawing Rooms or Apero, is both “from the counter” – the continental option, with a spread of cheeses and cured meat, very good pastries and juices – or a la carte dishes. Highlights of the full English are hash browns, crisp as autumn leaves, and the herby sausage, while another top choice is the crushed avocado on sourdough, complete with feta, olives and poached eggs.

Downstairs there’s a small gym, open to guests at all hours, with equipment including a bike, treadmill and Cross Trainer, plus weights. Guests can play table tennis in the Games Room.

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The hotel has lift access throughout and there are six adapted rooms.

Dogs are welcome at the hotel, and allowed in certain rooms plus the Drawing Rooms on the first floor. A dog-friendly room will come with extras, such as a basket, dog food and bowl, and treats.

Check in from 2pm; check out by noon.

Yes. A number of rooms can accommodate cots of fold-away beds (for children up to 12 years old), and there are also interconnecting rooms. On request, the hotel can provide child-size bathrobes and slippers, child toiletries and activity packs.

Best thing: Waking up in vast beds in the suites, and propping yourself up on colourful upholstered headboards.

Perfect for: Couples and families looking for a city stay with a luxe edge in a great location.

Not right for: Hipsters looking for a zeitgeisty bolthole.

Instagram from: Find the right angle of your seafood linguine with an Insta-ready backdrop in Apero.

Address: 10 Harrington Road, South Kensington, London SW7 3ER

Phone: 020 7589 5895

Website: ampersandhotel.com

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