By None

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Vegan charcuterie boards might be nonexistent in Oahu restaurants, but that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy one at home. While planning an upcoming project with Hawaiian cheesemaker Erin Olivari, owner of The Vegan Cheese Shoppe, I realized the only way I could find a feast of the cheeses was to assemble one myself.

Erin’s biz features locally grown macadamia nuts paired with other premium tree nuts to create healthy and satisfying cheese alternatives. But I can almost hear my father asking, “Where is the salami?”

Although fig salami can be purchased in specialty stores, I decided to create my own with pantry staples. My meat-loving Serbian dad would probably be rolling over in his grave if he knew I was veganizing the beloved cured sausage, a proud staple of his hometown, but I just couldn’t resist. And so, “Figlami” was born: A plant-based twist on the traditional chewy roll, with just the right balance of sweetness, spice and richness to complement the tang of the cheese.

I began by soaking 20 dried figs in a cup of red wine or dealcoholized wine, along with four sundried tomatoes, a cinnamon stick, a slice of fresh or dried orange, five dried cloves, a tablespoon of dried roasted garlic and herbs spice mix, a pinch of dried oregano, fennel and red pepper flakes. The mixture marinated for two days to allow the flavors to fully meld.

After removing the cinnamon stick and cloves, I poured the mixture into a pan and brought it to a boil over medium-high heat, cooking until the liquid had been absorbed. Once cooled, I pulsed the mixture in a food processor with one cup of toasted walnuts, which I added to mimic the richness and fat of traditional salami. The mixture was then divided into four portions. Each portion was rolled in parchment paper to mimic small salamis and lightly seasoned with salt and pepper, then left uncovered in the refrigerator overnight to air-dry and intensify the flavors.

By the next day, the figlami sliced beautifully, releasing a fragrant, sweet-spicy aroma that paired perfectly with Erin’s creamy macadamia nut brie (from $14).

Visit her booth at the Kakaako farmers market every Saturday and at the Kailua farmers market every Sunday from 8a.m. to noon, or order online at theveganshoppe.com.

The platter also had Miyoko’s plant milk mozzarella bar ($8.59) and Cheese and Thank You’s fresh mozzarella in basil oil ($5.47) from Whole Foods. Follow Your Heart’s dairy-free pepper-jack-style slices ($7.59) and Violife’s Just Like Feta ($9.59) from Down To Earth added another layer of flavor and texture, creating a delightful contrast with the figlami. Arranged with fresh fruit, toasted nuts, olives and crackers, the board became just as impressive and satisfying as a traditional charcuterie.

When it comes to plant-based substitutes, they may not taste exactly like the real thing, and with figlami, sometimes it’s all about imagination over imitation. I can just picture my dad chuckling and wagging a finger at my vegan audacity.