Nail polish has been around for a long time, but new formulas and techniques have taken nail painting to the next level. Manicure enthusiasts can now choose from an endless variety of colors and finishes, lasting for weeks.
The polish, which is a type of lacquer painted onto the fingernails or toenails, isn’t just for decoration. Painting one’s nails is a form of self-expression and, for many, self-care.
There are two types of nail polish. Classic polish is applied to the nails and air-dried. It lasts for about a week before it starts to chip off, but it’s easy to remove at home using polish remover.
Gel polish is applied and then cured under ultraviolet light, which causes the polish to harden into a glossy, chip-resistant coat that lasts for weeks. Removal involves soaking the nails in acetone and scraping or filing the polish off.
Whether you’re a classic or a gel fan, you may be wondering how the polish affects your nails and overall health. Maybe you’ve heard you need to take breaks to let your nails “breathe.” Or perhaps you read news about banned nail polish ingredients and have concerns.
In August, the European Union banned trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), a chemical found in gel nail polishes. Starting Sept. 1, gel polish containing TPO can no longer be sold or used in salons in the EU, TODAY.com reported. But gel polishes with TPO are still widely available in the U.S.
Is nail polish bad for your nails, and what are the possible health effects? We spoke to experts to find out.
Is nail polish bad for you?
“Nail polish itself is not inherently bad for you,” Dr. Nicole Weiler, a board-certified dermatologist at NYU Langone Health, tells TODAY.com. However, the application and removal process can affect your nail health.
“Repetitive, manual manipulation of the nail over time can damage it and cause nail fragility or breakage,” says Weiler. Harsh, acetone-based polish removers can also dehydrate the nails.
“I think everything is okay in moderation with nail polish,” Dr. Shari Lipner, a dermatologist at Weill Cornell Medical Center who researches nail conditions, tells TODAY.com.
Over-using polish or acetone removers could lead to dryness, weakness and discoloration. “What can happen is a condition called pseudoleukonychia, or white patches that appear on the nails after wearing polish for a long time,” says Lipner.
These white spots on the nails are typically caused by keratin granulations, or a buildup of keratin in the damaged areas, Lipner notes. (A fungus called white superficial onychomycosis also causes similar white spots on the nails.)
However, gel polish presents additional risks due to the way it’s cured and removed. “Getting manicures constantly, especially gel manicures, can be unhealthy,” says Lipner.
Gel nail polish risks
“What we worry about with the gel polish is it has to be removed by soaking it in acetone,” says Lipner, adding that this can dry out and damage the nails. The remaining polish is then scraped or filed off, often using an electric drill.
Improper or aggressive removal can cause the nails to become soft and weak. They may break, split or peel easily, or develop vertical ridges, says Lipner.
During the curing process, the nails are directly exposed to UVA rays for 30 to 90 seconds. It seems quick, but no amount of UV exposure from nail lamps is safe, the experts warn — this includes nail lamps marketed as “LED,” which still emit UV radiation, Weiler adds.
“UV light can make you more prone to forming cancers on the skin of your hands or feet,” says Lipner.
Certain chemicals in gel polish, such as acrylates, can cause skin reactions. “Sometimes people develop allergic contact dermatitis, which is an allergy to the polish,” says Lipner. This may cause a rash, redness, swelling or itching around the nails, Weiler adds.
What about TPO? The EU’s ban was based on animal studies, which suggested a link between TPO exposure and negative reproductive outcomes. In the studies, rats were fed high amounts of TPO — much higher than the amount humans are exposed to from nail polish.
Several experts previously told TODAY.com that current research indicates there is “little to no reason to believe there are risks to fertility or overall health from gel nail polish with TPO.” There are also TPO-free gel polishes available.
Still, Lipner recommends limiting gel manicures to a few times per year. If you’re pregnant and have concerns, talk to your doctor, says Weiler.
What is the healthiest nail polish?
Some nail polishes are formulated without toxic chemicals such as formaldehyde or toluene. These may be labeled as “non-toxic” or “five-free.” While these polishes do contain fewer harsh chemicals, whether they are safer or healthier than regular polish remains unclear.
“The problem is, there aren’t human studies or long-term studies evaluating different polishes. So while a company may claim that their polish is healthy, it’s probably just marketing,” says Lipner.
Be wary of claims on nail polish labels, which aren’t FDA-approved, the experts note.
Should you give your nails a break?
While your nails do not literally need to “breathe,” the experts recommend taking a breather from polish every few months to allow the nails to recuperate.
You should also take breaks if you notice dryness, weakness, discoloration or signs of an allergic reaction.
During this time, Lipner recommends using an oil or moisturizer to hydrate the nails and the skin around them.
It’s important to be able to see and examine your naked nails. “When people use polish on a continuous basis, they may not be aware of nail defects or infections brewing,” says Lipner.
Risks of manicures and pedicures
Nail polish aside, manicures and pedicures present other risks.
It’s common for technicians to push back or cut the cuticles before applying polish, says Lipner.
The cuticle is a layer of skin at the base of the nail that protects from invading microorganisms — without it, the nail matrix is susceptible. “Water can get in, yeast can get in … fungus, viruses, and bacteria can get in,” says Lipner. This can lead to a painful infection called paronychia.
Another risky practice is filing the nails with an electric drill, which can thin the nails or lead to permanent deformities, says Weiler.
“If tools aren’t properly sanitized, there’s an increased risk of infection, especially with the electric file because it can inadvertently (cut) the skin and cuticles,” Weiler adds.
Tips for healthy nails
If you love to paint your nails but want to keep them healthy, the experts offer a few tips:
Take breaks every few months
Don’t cut your cuticles
Avoid harsh polish removal
Keep your nails moisturized
Apply sunscreen to your hands and feet before getting UV-cured gel polish
Avoid biting or picking your nails
At the salon, make sure the technicians use disposable nail tools or sanitize reusable tools properly between clients. The gold standard is a process called “autoclaving,” says Weiler.
An autoclave is a steam sterilizer that kills all bacteria, fungi and viruses. The tools will come in a sealed bag that changes color to indicate that they’re sterilized properly, Weiler adds.
When to see a doctor
Nail damage from overusing polish usually resolves on its own by taking a break. However, there are some nail health red flags you should never ignore.
If you’re in severe pain or have signs of an infection, such as pus and spreading redness, seek medical attention.
Keep an eye out for any new growths, sudden nail deformities, or significant color changes, says Weiler.
Dark brown or black lines on the nails can be normal, especially for darker-skinned patients, says Lipner. But rarely, these can be a sign of melanoma, so see a doctor just in case.
Nails that turn yellow, thicken, and start crumbling could indicate a fungal infection, which needs to be evaluated and treated by a dermatologist, says Lipner.
Underlying conditions can also manifest in the fingernails. “Pits or indentations in the nail could be a sign of psoriasis,” Lipner says. Brittle nails can be caused by nutrient deficiencies and thyroid problems. “We can’t always blame the manicure. Sometimes it can be a systemic problem,” says Lipner.
This story first appeared on TODAY.com. More from TODAY: