By Portia Jones
Copyright walesonline
Nothing says “treat yourself” like sinking into a bubbling hot tub or drifting off mid-massage in a plush robe and slippers. When you’re overdue for some proper downtime, a spa break is the ultimate escape, and Wales is packed with lush spots where you can chill out and de-stress. I recently found a coastal bolthole with one of the best ocean views in Wales and a submerged spa with a bubbly whirlpool, perfect for an autumn break. Perched on the dramatic Cardigan Bay coast, The Cliff Hotel & Spa promises panoramic views and indulgent treatments for a spa break by the sea. Along with picturesque views, the Cliff Hotel is well-positioned to explore the sections of the long-distance Wales Coast Path and the nearby River Teifi trails in Ceredigion . Fearing burnout after a heavy workload of writing about holidays, I booked a mini break for myself and my ever-obliging husband so I could escape the tyranny of emails for a few days. We packed the car and headed for Cardigan Bay for a few days of much-needed coast walks, whirlpools and pub teas in one of my favourite parts of Wales. The journey was straightforward (other than debating whose playlist was the best, my 90s bangers were the clear winner, obviously), and free parking was plentiful as you arrived. There’s nothing worse than a hotel charging you a fortune only to find ludicrously overpriced parking charges. I’m looking at you, Cardiff City centre hotels. Check-in was lively; clearly, the entire county agreed that spa-based recovery was a necessity. When our turn came, we hit a minor hiccup: apparently, one must email ahead to secure access to the spa. My email had either gone missing or been rejected by a tyrannical service provider. After some gentle negotiation (I used my best Mary Poppins voice), it was eventually agreed that, yes, we could use the spa facilities included in the spa break we’d paid for. A radical concept, but we got there. The hotel offers a dozen room and suite types, from modest to mortgage-threatening. Many have sea views and private balconies, which are ideal for pretending you’re in a lifestyle Instagram ad. If you’re feeling particularly pleased with yourself, some rooms even come with a private hot tub, perfect for stewing in your own success. However, we were not feeling particularly flush as we are, as my husband says, “constantly going away.” Thanks to my ‘Genius status’, a title I wear with humility and aggressive pride, I’d booked an economy room for us for under £100 via booking.com, with breakfast included, like a pro! The room itself was perfectly pleasant, if not photogenically blessed. It was L-shaped and overlooked what I can only assume were the hotel’s less celebrated architectural features. It didn’t quite scream ‘romantic escape’; more ‘we’ve been married for almost 10 years, so let’s save the splurge for the big shop’ vibe. However, it was well equipped with all the usual amenities, such as tea and coffee-making facilities, robes, a hairdryer, etc. Admittedly, a small pang of envy did strike as I imagined the sea-view crowd sipping prosecco on their balconies. But the weather held, and with a glass of wine on the terrace, even budget travellers can feel like minor royalty, albeit the sort kept safely away from the actual palace. The hotel is also ideally positioned for a sunset coast walk. During this walk, you might see a dazzling kaleidoscope of colour as golden hues melt into deep sapphire over the ocean, creating a cinematic scene that would rival the Mediterranean. As we strolled along the cliff tops, it struck me that we were the only ones here taking in this spectacular sunset with barely another soul in sight. Perhaps that’s because Cardigan Bay remains one of Wales’s most underrated stretches of coastline, sandwiched between the headline-grabbing beauty of Pembrokeshire and the Llŷn Peninsula. In 2023, Time Out magazine even dubbed its main town, Cardigan, the “most underrated” spot in west Wales. Here, you can experience Wales as its most authentic self, zipping between secluded bays to spot dolphins, trekking the coastal path and feasting on piping hot fish and chips in small fishing villages. The relative remoteness of Ceredigion and its communities’ proud, resilient character have long made this coastline a stronghold of Welsh language and culture. Here, you can visit ancient castles, shop for local crafts, and try local produce at a food festival. The Cliff Hotel & Spa is ideally positioned to discover this underrated corner of Wales. It is just a short hop from Poppit Sands and the town of Cardigan. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs, find out What’s On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here After a full day of exploring, you’ll likely be longing to sink into the hotel’s subterranean spa and rest your weary legs. We arrived early, in case further negotiations were required to secure a whirlpool session. Fortunately, the spa gods smiled upon us, and we were swiftly ushered in to find a bubbling hot tub, steam room, sauna, and hydrotherapy pool all ready to assist our delicate limbs after a day of hiking along the undulating Ceredigion coast. Determined to maximise every precious minute of our 60-minute spa window, I tackled the lot: sauna, steam room, hot tub, and heated loungers. I was a spa girlie on a mission, living my absolute best wellness life. For those wishing to elevate their self-care game even further, the hotel offers spa packages with light lunches and treatments, signature massages, scrubs, mini facials, you name it. Perhaps next time, I’ll consider upgrading from ‘budget explorer’ to ‘spa goddess.’ If you fancy dining in-house, the hotel offers Carreg at the Cliff, where you can indulge in ocean-view dining that’s decidedly swish—because why settle for less when you can gaze at the sea while you eat? The main Bar and Restaurant boasts floor-to-ceiling windows leading to a terrace with sweeping views of Poppit Sands, making it the perfect spot for a sundowner by the sea. The menus are seasonal, so they’ve clearly got fresh, locally sourced ingredients on the brain. They even have the more laid-back Point Bar & Lounge, ideal for a cocktail or two with your fave. Lunch and dinner menus feature classic dishes with a not-so-subtle Welsh twist, with dishes like Welsh Lamb Ballotine, Pembrokeshire Sirloin and Perl Las Linguine on the menu. The Charcuterie Board is a picky eater’s dream, with a selection of Mixed Cured Meats, Peppadews, Pickled Cheese, Cornichons, Salsa Verde, and Focaccia. Lush. If you’re on a Dinner, Bed & Breakfast Package, you’ll get a £30 food allowance per person to play with, though I’m sure they’ll be as flexible with your choices as you are with your diet. No judgment here. If, like us, you’re in the market for something more “pub grub” than fine dining, never fear. There’s always the option for a solid burger or a good old-fashioned hunter’s chicken in the affordable boozers nearby. We particularly love the Flat Rock Bistro down the road. On reflection, after a relaxing few days away, I would have to say I enjoyed my seaside escape and managed not to spend a fortune. This hotel clearly suits a range of budgets, from savvy travellers to big spenders. The commanding ocean views are the main draw for me, though I do wish I’d shelled out a bit more for a sea-view room next time. Cardigan Bay is a wildly underrated spot, and this hotel offers the perfect base to explore it. A great coastal escape with just enough luxury to make you feel like you’ve indulged, without going overboard. Definitely one to consider for your next trip. View rates for Cliff Hotel and Spa
