By Christopher Sharp

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James Martin is of the UK’s most beloved chefs and a regular fixture on Saturday morning television and is renowned for his culinary prowess. But just how tasty are his dishes? To find out, I decided to have lunch at James’ restaurant – Grill at the Lygon Arms – nestled in the idyllic Cotswolds village of Broadway. The restaurant is tucked away inside the equally charming Lygon Arms hotel, boasting a menu handpicked by the Saturday Kitchen host and self-confessed petrolhead. Conveniently, it’s only 50 miles from Silverstone , the heart of British motorsport, and roughly two-and-a-half hours from central London. On the day of my visit, the roads were clear, making the journey just over two hours. As I arrived in Broadway, the rain had subsided, car parks were bustling, and the streets were teeming with pedestrians. There was a palpable buzz in the air, as evidenced by one café owner who was run off his feet with business in this quaint Cotswolds spot. The Lygon Arms sits proudly on the main high street, flanked by an array of delis and quirky shops. Guests leisurely drifted in and out of the venue, some checking in for a stay, others popping in for a bite, and a few, I suspect, doing both. To reach the restaurant, you enter the hotel, take a right turn, stroll down a lengthy corridor, and are welcomed into a grand, arch-ceilinged room. The decor is striking, with walls painted in a shade reminiscent of Bluebird blue, contrasting with light wooden seats upholstered in green leather. I must admit, my initial impression can be summed up in three words – nice but intimidating. Upon arrival, I was met with chandeliers that seemed to be crafted from antlers and moulded into tree shapes; their light hue contrasting with a slight Slytherin -esque vibe. It’s an unsettling design choice, but one you can’t help but appreciate as you finish your meal. If you’re curious about why it felt daunting, the best way to describe it is that unfamiliar places and situations always have a certain edge of unease. During a time when I wasn’t in journalism, I worked in various hospitality roles with varying levels of satisfaction, and sometimes it still feels odd to be in a posh place and be served rather than serving. Now, onto the main event – the food. I opted for a two-course meal with sparkling water (I was driving) and no wine and kicked off with something I wouldn’t usually pop in my weekly shop, crab. Specifically, the Cornish Dressed crab with apple, celeriac and lemon, accompanied by toasted rye bread. What arrived was mostly what was promised – the bread was not toasted, but the crab was exactly as described and absolutely scrumptious. Crab isn’t something I usually eat, so the experience felt quite special. The softness of the meat paired wonderfully with the celeriac and lemon. It was light on the tongue and I could feel my body delighting in the experience of tasting such a dish. The bread tended to overpower the flavour of the crab when combined, but I suspect if it had been toasted, this wouldn’t have been the case. For my main course, I decided to opt for something a bit more hearty – the Blythburgh Farm Pork Chop, which came with a cider Bramley apple compote, crisp sage, all-butter mash, and roasting juices. To accompany this, I chose the grilled Hispi cabbage with ranch dressing. Hispi cabbage is a variety of white cabbage known for its pale leaves and sweet taste. It was this particular cabbage that served as a transformative element for the pork chop. Pork chops can often be quite bland, but when paired with the greens, cabbage, and accompanying juices, it was elevated, adding a tangy zing to the dish that would have otherwise been forgettable. After this, and with a long journey still ahead, I decided against dessert and instead opted for a double espresso before settling the bill and stepping out into the Friday afternoon sunshine. The total for two dishes, a side, some sparkling water, and a double espresso came to £82.41. The breakdown of prices was as follows: The most shocking part was the price of the double espresso. While the food prices were somewhat justifiable, even considering the luxurious surroundings, £6 for a double espresso seemed excessive. However, despite the hefty bill, I thoroughly enjoyed my dining experience at a restaurant that fits perfectly within its picturesque Cotswold setting, surrounded by quaint villages that encapsulate a vision of Britain’s past while also reflecting its present.