By John Wenzel

Copyright denverpost

Editor’s note: This is part of The Know’s series, Staff Favorites. Each week, we give our opinions on the best that Colorado has to offer for dining, shopping, entertainment, outdoor activities and more. (We’ll also let you in on some hidden gems.)

Somehow, the two-seater where my soon-to-be wife and I had our first date still hugs the wall at Charlie Brown’s Bar & Grille on Capitol Hill. This month, we celebrated our 20th anniversary of that date, but for our wedding anniversary (the 15th one, also this month), we wanted something extra special: a shot of white-tablecloth quality and comfort in a very Denver setting.

Sometimes we feel guilty that we don’t seek out the newer, showier Michelin-recommended restaurants — we’re adventurous eaters looking for brave and unfamiliar combos — but our free time, checking accounts and child care resources are limited. And we also know exactly what we want in terms of clean, strong flavors. Barolo Grill, an Italian institution on the upper lip of Cherry Creek, presents not only a deep and thoughtful wine list but also a northern Italian menu and experience that’s worth the expense and effort.

I mention the experience because that’s where Barolo towers. House-made tagliatelle or red wine-braised duck (a signature) or powdered extra virgin olive oil that turns silky in your mouth are undeniable draws. But so are the knowing laughs with sophisticated servers; convivial, dimly lit and artfully earth-toned rooms; and a fundamental veneration of diners I find lacking in most lauded joints. I won’t mention them, but certain local chefs with high profiles have let me down after treating us as diners just lucky to be the beneficiaries of their mercy and creative-genius largesse, apparently.

Those are not exactly the places at which I want to spend $100 or more per person. At Barolo, I feel cared for. As we waited for our reservation to clock in, the bartender spent time chatting with us. I don’t drink, so the wine and cocktail list missed me; my wife ordered on recommendation (and continued to enjoy) the Soave, a substitute for her usual pinot grigio. But I did embrace the $8 Italian fizz (the slightly salty Galvinia organic soda) and a black coffee that’s smooth, like my favorites at The Brown Palace, Bistro Vendome and Frasca.

We opted for the $95-per-person degustazione (tasting) menu, which delivered four courses of our choice in a leisurely but measured pace. There were seasonal touches — local heirlooms in a focused caprese, grilled Palisade peaches, crispy Technicolor veggies — but I certainly didn’t mind the hazelnut and herb-encrusted Berkshire pork tenderloin or, really, testing anything that my wife shared among her choices.

The cheesecake, sprinkled with edible flower petals, may as well have been a bouquet congratulating us for making the right choice. It’s a feeling that’s lasted long after the meal.

Barolo Grill is at 3030 E. Sixth Ave. in Denver. Call 303-393-1040 or visit barologrilldenver.com for reservations and more details.

Subscribe to our weekly newsletter, In The Know, to get entertainment news sent straight to your inbox.