For nearly six decades, Foppiano Vineyards has been known for its hearty Petite Sirah. Now, with new owners at the helm, the Russian River Valley winery is moving in a fresh direction with an expanded lineup of wines and a modernized tasting room.
The story
Giovanni Foppiano landed in New York from his native Genoa in 1855 and headed to California in search of gold. Striking it rich as a miner didn’t pan out — so to speak — and in 1896, he bought an 80-acre farm south of Healdsburg and became a supplier of bulk wines.
During Prohibition, Foppiano Wine Company pivoted to growing grapes for home winemaking kits. In 1926, the feds raided the farm and famously dumped 100,000 gallons of bootleg wine into a nearby creek. After the Repeal, Louis J. Foppiano — the founder’s grandson — began bottling wines under the Foppiano label. In 1967, as varietal wines gained favor over jug wines, Foppiano introduced its now-iconic Petite Sirah.
Louis J.’s son, Louis M. Foppiano, joined the business in the 1970s and ran the winery for nearly five decades. In 2024, he sold Foppiano Vineyards to Courtney Benham of CMB Wines, which also owns Martin Ray Vineyards & Winery in Santa Rosa and Vina Robles in Paso Robles.
Benham has since embarked on a significant revamp of the Foppiano estate, including the long-neglected production facility, which is now used for aging and storage. (Benham jokes that the wall-sized 24,000-gallon concrete vats are the only things holding up the building.) He’s also replanting the 130-acre estate vineyards to modern spacing and adding varieties such as Vermentino. Forty acres of Petite Sirah, planted in 1970, will remain.
The vibe
After a yearlong makeover, Foppiano’s formerly dark-and-dated tasting room has a bright new look. The compact space now features contemporary sofa and bar seating, with gleaming copper pendant lights overhead. Sliding glass walls open onto a refreshed patio, which includes a pergola for shade and tables overlooking the Petite Sirah vineyard. New landscaping and picnic spots invite visitors to hang out and play lawn games while they sip. Once the permits are approved, the winery will add a kitchen and begin cooking pizzas in its wood-fired outdoor oven. In the meantime, Foppiano offers picnic and charcuterie add-ons from Costeaux French Bakery in Healdsburg.
On the palate
Foppiano’s signature Petite Sirah is famous for a reason — it’s a very good wine — but at a time when consumer palates are leaning toward lighter, less heavy-handed styles, the winery is expanding its portfolio and putting more focus on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The 2024 Vermentino ($40) is a fun and fresh wine with peachy notes and a crisp finish. The savory 2024 Skin Contact Chardonnay ($40), with its pale salmon color and soft tannic structure, is an interesting twist on your typical California Chardonnay. The 2021 Estate Petite Sirah from the Russian River Valley ($32) has a deep purple color, aromas of toasty oak, and flavors of blue and black fruits. Tastings cost $25-$30.
Beyond the bottle
In these uncertain times, we could all use more silliness and joy. That calls for dogs in Halloween costumes! On Oct. 25, from 2 p.m. to 4:30 p.m., Foppiano will host Yappy-Howl-Oween, with prizes for the best dog and human get-ups, and a special award for the finest human-dog duo. Admission, including one glass of wine, costs $11 for humans and $5 for competing pups. Wine-friendly frankfurters are five bucks each. Event proceeds support the Paws for Love Foundation, an organization that provides care and rescue services for animals in need.
Foppiano Vineyards, 12707 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg. Open from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. foppiano.com