On an unassuming corner in Garfield sits a nearly 90-year-old saloon-inspired tavern, a place you might easily walk right past if you weren’t looking for it.
But that would be a mistake. Because you would be blowing right by Charlie Blood’s, one of New Jersey’s most quirky and charming dining experiences — a country western dive with an incredible steak deal to boot.
Named for Charlie “Blood” Benanti, a member of the New Jersey Boxing Hall of Fame who earned his nickname for drawing the blood of his opponents, the restaurant has been in the Benanti family since 1938.
Sally Bulger, Benanti’s granddaughter, told NJ Advance Media that she and her two sisters are the third generation to run the Bergen County restaurant.
“Our children are now working here, so it really is a family affair.”
Sally’s late father, Salvatore Benanti, is to thank for Charlie Blood’s kitschy spin — he fell in love with country-western culture while at college in Montana.
Beyond the western flair, the restaurant is a treasure trove of New Jersey memorabilia and other eccentric trinkets.
Old license plates. Stuffed animal heads. Even a few seats from old Giants Stadium.
“Our guests want to be a part of the history, they have contributed to a lot of the other decor,” Bulger said. “It’s really fun.”
Novel decor aside, the main reason I wanted to pay Charlie Blood’s a visit was their 24-ounce ribeye, served for the shockingly low price of $30.95. Could a steak that size at that price be any good?
I was there for the good, the bad, and the quirky.
The good
I arrived at Charlie Blood’s with completely neutral expectations. Places like this are usually big hits or misses, but noticing how the staff and nearly all of the guests were on a first-name basis, I had a feeling this meal was going to fall in the former.
The first dish to hit the table was the Cowboy calamari ($17.95), a massive pile of fried calamari topped with hot and sweet cherry peppers, hot honey and balsamic drizzle. The sweet, sticky heat enrobed each piece of crispy squid, making for an addictive bite — a killer spin on a classic.
Next to arrive was the bar pie ($14.95), thicker than your Star Tavern or Kinchley’s offerings, with a nostalgic Pizza Hut scent, but ended up being a pleasant surprise in quality and flavor. Cheesy and crispy, I enjoyed the ratios but wish I hadn’t ordered it well done. The bottom ended up being a bit overcooked in areas, which added a bitterness to those bites. I wouldn’t dock it for that, because the parts that weren’t burnt were very enjoyable. Overall, a very respectable “bar” pie.
Our server raved about the 50/50 burger ($16.95) which was an easy order and followed Charlie’s trend of bigger being better. The thick, juicy angus patty with smokey chopped bacon folded within was a savory dream. Add melted cheese, the toasted roll and a little ketchup, and you’ve got a burger for the books. The crinkle fries that accompanied it were fine, paling in comparison the the main event.
Finally, the primary driver for this visit arrived, “The Duke” ($32.95). The 24-ounce ribeye was perfectly cooked, juicy with a slight char on the outside. Marinated in a savory “Maggi” sauce, the barely detectable umami added a slightly unctuous note to what was already an extremely respectable cut of meat. The two extra dollars to replace fries with golden, crispy onion rings was well-worth it.
You’ll be hard-pressed to find a 24-ounce ribeye anywhere for $30, let alone a great one. For perspective, a ribeye of the same size at the vaunted River Palm Terrace in Edgewater will run you $78. I’m not saying this cut of meat is on the same level as one of the best steakhouses in New Jersey. But for less than half the price at Charlie Blood’s, it’s worth the trip alone.
Circling back to Charlie’s Italian offerings, “The Godmother” ($23.95) consisted of a hearty trio of eggplant rollatini, chicken parmesan and shrimp parmesan with a side of spaghetti marinara. Shrimp parm isn’t something you see often, and this version was as good as you’d expect with two colossal fried shrimp covered in the same bubbly mozzarella that blanket the chicken and eggplant.
The eggplant was a delicate roulade packed with creamy ricotta. The chicken parm, my favorite of the three, was tender and moist with nicely browned edges. This dish could have easily fed three people.
The bad
Savory dishes are what Charlie Blood does well. You’ll want to stick to those and those only. I tried both desserts on the menu, a slice of cheesecake and chocolate mousse pie ($5 each). The chocolate mousse was passable, but the shallow, pale, cheesecake was gummy, sour and cheesy in an off-putting way. You probably aren’t going to have room for dessert after such a heavy meal. But if you do, go have it somewhere else.
The vibe
From the outside, Charlie Blood’s looks like a typical, old-school dive bar and restaurant — albeit with a country-western twist. Upon walking through the saloon doors into the dining room, you’re transported to something much different. A museum-esque medley of tchotchke from boxing, country-western culture, taxidermy, history, Americana and more greets you. I immediately noticed the mix of John Wayne decor that clashed perfectly with the hodgepodge of patron donations. If the reality show “Hoarders” ever wanted to Wild West-themed episode, they could do it here.
I could have spent hours admiring every inch of that space. The tables and booths were cozy enough, dressed with mismatched tablecloths, paper placemats, vases of faux flowers and kitschy candles made from various empty spirit bottles.
A mix of ’90s classic radio hits piped into the space had me dancing in my seat while the staff zipped around, singing along and dancing, too. I felt like I was at a quirky relative’s home, a place I’d be excited to come back to time and time again.
The bottom line
Charlie Blood’s is a piece of New Jersey history that is not to be missed. Celebrating over 85 years and generations of history, it’s a fantastic place to have a great meal at a very reasonable price. The family element adds to the charm and authenticity, and you’ll likely meet more than one of Charlie’s bloodline doing your visit. Visit on your birthday and you’re guaranteed to have them make a spectacle of you, twinkle-lit cowboy hat included. You pretty much can’t go wrong on the menu, outside of dessert, and don’t be shy when it comes to their specials, many of which are well-loved family recipes.
Charlie Blood’s is open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday.