Copyright manchestereveningnews
The Horse & Jockey has become a symbol of Chorlton Green. Though it didn't become a pub until 1793, it's been claimed that the building dates back to 1512. Its instantly recognisable black and white Tudor frontage was added in the early 1900s . It's been under many different guises since then but was sold the brewer Joseph Holt in 2012. Now, after four years running the successful Black Friar in Salford, owner Neil Burke and Executive Chef Ben Chaplin are bringing their expert eye to the suburbs and taking over the much-loved Chorlton venue. Neil acquired The Black Friar two years ago after successfully operating the venue since 2021. The Grade II-listed building was saved from development after sitting derelict for over 15 years, becoming a well-loved community spot and one of the only independently owned Pubs in the city centre. Join the Manchester Evening News WhatsApp group HERE With the Horse & Jockey, the pair are aiming to build on this and create a pub that focuses on great British produce in a beautiful environment worthy of the community it serves. "I think with our reputation with The Black Friar in Salford we could have quite easily done something in Manchester based but being a local myself, I feel that Stretford , Whalley Range , and all this part of South Manchester deserve to have a good foodie pub," reflects Neil, who is busy ahead of service. The pub only opened its doors a few days ago but has been packed. As we talk, a woman comes through the doors to tell him she used to drink in the pub years ago and had been sent on a mission by her husband to ask if they do cask ales. Thankfully, they do. “I have a personal history with the Horse & Jockey and it’s always held a special place in my heart. It’s such a beautiful building, but it hasn’t been shining the way it should in recent years," adds Neil. "As a local myself, I felt Chorlton deserved a proper foodie pub - somewhere that delivers brilliant food in a setting that does justice to the building’s history. "I've seen the Jockey in lots of different forms and I know that we've got a real opportunity here to do something great and keep people in the suburbs." The decision came after careful consideration of the taking on a venue in the area and a big-picture view of the shifting hospitality landscape. "The city centre if filling up with all these big names and London brands coming up, that's a big thing to compete against," he admits. These places are opening up and spending two to three million pounds on refurbishments with 500 covers and we haven't got that sort of money to compete. " Chorlton hasn't had a great pub that's foodie, and while it does have places to eat and drink, I do know they're struggling. "We recently saw the Laundrette close down and Beech Road doesn't always consistently get the footfall it should, so highlighting this as a suburb, as a place to eat, is going to help everyone - I'm not hear to take anything away from local businesses, I'm here to make it fit and work for everybody." Following an extensive renovation overseen by Neil, and following a partnership with the Manchester-based brewery Holts, the 200-year-old landmark on Chorlton Green has been totally reimagined as a gastropub. "I was nervous, but having the support of the brewery and that support network has been great for me, it's given me a confidence. I'm not nervous about it being a great location though, because I know how much it's needed - you build it and they will come. "The Black Friar is testament to that, when we opened that, a weird little spot, on a corner, no one heads that way, nothing else around, no parking, and we've made it as good at it is and it's still growing. "This place has got a similar story, a pub that's perhaps not shining as bright as it used to, everybody knows it, and it's able to lean into what pubs can and should be, which is what The Black Friar did too. The recent renovation has carefully preserved its character while giving the interiors a softer, stripped-back feel with a palette inspired by the building’s history. But Neil has been particularly invested. "114 eBay purchases, so nothing off the shelf or new, and I tried to find things from vintage markets, or these tables fr example are from a pub that closed - I've tried to make it feel like it's always been like this, and not designed. "I didn't use a designer, I've done everything myself, every rug, table and chair because I want this to be the base and grow from here, I want more trinkets and s*** on the wall," he laughs. "My biggest fear is just that people will forget about us Monday to Friday, weekends will be fine, but one message to the community around us is once a month is come for tea, you don't have to spend a fortune. It will make a big difference. Heading up the kitchen will be Head Chef Paolo Bianchi, whose glittering culinary career has spanned working under acclaimed chef Alain Ducasse at the Eiffel Tower in Paris, leading kitchens at Four Seasons hotels in Dubai under Jean-Georges, and later opening Gordon Ramsay’s Lucky Cat in Manchester. "A lot of people that come up to us say 'this is our pub', which brings a bit extra responsibility, he says. "But with an environment like this, besides the classics, you can play around with things, and using my previous experience, I can bring something new. "I have a lot of respect for the local community, but it's also a chance for them to try things that are a bit different, like our fish and chips is somewhere between classic and tempura for example. Making the most of the seasons and what produce is available, diners can expect elevated British pub food reimagined with touches from Paolo’s Italian heritage and his French and Asian influences, with everything made fresh in-house. "We need to have a banging burger all the time, fish and chips and pies - this will always be there. There's a chicken pie going on next week too, and the shepherds pie has been popular and selling a lot. "We divided it up into two parts, one is classics with a bit of a twist, then there is a part of the menu which has all my heritage, so there will always be a pasta, there will be Asian touches too, like yuzu in the tartare sauce, plus a bit of French with the onion soup. Highlights from the launch menu include starters such as pickled clams and mussels, roast onion soup en croute and seared scallops, while classic mains include battered haddock with triple cooked chips, yuzu tartare and squid ink scraps, as well as The Jockey Burger with cheddar, house pickles and chips, plus hand-carve honey roast ham and alpine cheddar toasties. Other mains include a wild boar fettucine, market fish of the day, pork neck, apple and sauerkraut strudel and a sherry and wine braised ox cheek with potato and celeriac mash. Grill dishes span a half spatchcock, 8oz dry-aged sirloin and 10z tomahawk, while desserts while change with the seasons. The Horse & Jockey will also continue The Black Friar’s tradition of top-notch roasts, offering a dedicated Sunday Service menu of two courses for £30 or three for £37. Diners can choose from half spatchcock chicken, 35-day dry-aged beef, stuffed roast pork or a vegetarian mushroom wellington, all served with roast potatoes, sweet potato mash, roasted root vegetables, Yorkshire pudding and buckets of gravy. "One thing I've learnt is, you don't mess with the roast dinner. There will be a little touch, like a mushroom salt for the seasoning but we don't want to mess with it, we just want a nice gravy, meat cooked to perfection, good Yorkshire pudding." At the bar meanwhile, guests will still be able to enjoy Joseph Holt’s award-winning ales, now joined by a curated wine list, a refreshed cocktail menu with a planned happy hour, and updated bar snacks. In terms of prices, Neil has given the menus a lot of thought, but admits it is a challenging environment. "People look at a business and they go, 'they're so busy, they must have made a fortune', that's just not the case," he says. "The Black Friar runs on around 7% profit before anyone is taking a wage, tax, and all this stuff, so there's not much left. It'll be a similar story for here and that's why the Government needs to look at smaller, independent businesses. "I think it's all about VAT, I think in Europe the highest you hear really is about 10%. You get taxed on your money three ways here in the UK. "I've been really price conscious, so menu starts at £15 for a main course and while the most expensive is £27, people can make their own choice. I've put 20p on beer and maybe people will give me stick for that but I've tried to find a balance. "I really want it to be as cheap as it can be, so everyone can come as often as possible and be full. At the same time I've tried not to be scared of those higher end dishes at £25-27 and make them the best they can be." The Horse & Jockey is now open. Tables can now be booked via the website here and walk-ins are always welcome. Horse & Jockey, 9 Chorlton Green, Chorlton-cum-Hardy, Manchester M21 9HS.
